00:00:01:21 , 00:00:16:28 , ♪ Theme Music ♪ 00:00:22:15 , 00:00:24:03 , I love these colors. 00:00:25:01 , 00:00:28:17 , All colors are everywhere around us| in nature. 00:00:29:08 , 00:00:30:10 , But some of them, 00:00:30:26 , 00:00:34:03 , as this very lovely shade| from Iris, 00:00:34:20 , 00:00:38:15 , are not very convenient for dyeing | textiles because they would not bear 00:00:39:02 , 00:00:40:15 , washings. 00:00:41:01 , 00:00:44:00 , But this plant,| which is the 00:00:44:12 , 00:00:47:09 , ordinary Woad plant| for Indigo, 00:00:47:24 , 00:00:50:28 , will give a very strong| and efficient 00:00:51:12 , 00:00:53:10 , blue for textile. 00:00:54:03 , 00:00:55:13 , I am Michel Garcia. 00:00:55:18 , 00:00:58:02 , Welcome to my | Natural Dyes Workshop. 00:00:58:19 , 00:01:06:14 , ♪ Theme Music ♪ 00:01:43:27 , 00:01:47:24 , Bon jour!| Welcome to a Natural Dye Workshop 00:01:47:24 , 00:01:49:18 , featuring| Michel Garcia. 00:01:50:11 , 00:01:52:11 , I am| Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, 00:01:53:00 , 00:01:54:18 , a textile lover, 00:01:55:05 , 00:01:57:22 , researcher, and an artist. 00:01:58:10 , 00:02:01:07 , I am in Lauris, France,| at the Plant Garden, 00:02:02:00 , 00:02:05:07 , le Jardin Conservatoire Les Plantes 00:02:05:29 , 00:02:07:11 , Tinctoriales. 00:02:07:24 , 00:02:09:15 , Here is Michel Garcia. 00:02:10:16 , 00:02:12:24 , Would you tell us about the garden? 00:02:14:07 , 00:02:15:06 , This garden, 00:02:15:21 , 00:02:19:23 , was started in the year 2000, 00:02:20:16 , 00:02:23:03 , well -- at this period in time| I was traveling, 00:02:23:17 , 00:02:28:07 , and I discovered lots of different| ways of using natural dyes, 00:02:28:12 , 00:02:32:24 , all over the world,| so I collected some seeds and plants 00:02:33:06 , 00:02:36:10 , in order to present it to a| large public. 00:02:36:15 , 00:02:42:00 , We dedicated some squares of| this garden to some traditions 00:02:42:11 , 00:02:47:07 , of the world, and not only to| present the ethnic 00:02:47:12 , 00:02:50:22 , approach but to present some 00:02:50:27 , 00:02:54:11 , interesting works people do actually 00:02:54:16 , 00:02:57:22 , just to present| ecological dyes. 00:02:58:05 , 00:03:03:04 , So, some of these squares are| dedicated to some regions 00:03:04:02 , 00:03:06:27 , for example some of these squares are| dedicated to 00:03:07:14 , 00:03:11:12 , Japan, China, and northern countries| of Europe, 00:03:11:26 , 00:03:13:26 , to West Africa -- and so on. 00:03:14:08 , 00:03:16:29 , Was there any textile tradition here? 00:03:17:23 , 00:03:21:02 , Well, I am living in Lauris for| a long time, 00:03:21:07 , 00:03:25:25 , and I was really keen on the| local tradition of printing cotton. 00:03:26:07 , 00:03:28:08 , And dyeing with natural dyes. 00:03:28:19 , 00:03:31:20 , Actually, this tradition is nearly| lost, 00:03:32:04 , 00:03:35:29 , but a lot of samples are still| available in different museums 00:03:36:04 , 00:03:39:12 , and then, because Lauris was| producing 00:03:40:06 , 00:03:43:29 , a lot of dye stuff for the | factories, 00:03:44:04 , 00:03:46:20 , then it was both a good 00:03:46:25 , 00:03:52:22 , place for growing plants| and explaining how to use them. 00:03:53:28 , 00:03:56:19 , I know Provence is famous for| Provençal prints, 00:03:56:24 , 00:04:00:24 , and Nîmes is known for| 'Serge de Nîmes' 00:04:00:29 , 00:04:03:24 , which is the beginning of the word,| 'denim', 00:04:03:29 , 00:04:05:19 , and so forth. 00:04:05:24 , 00:04:09:29 , But now when we think of Provence, | we think of wines and cuisine. 00:04:10:04 , 00:04:13:23 , Why did you make a garden in| Lauris in Provence? 00:04:14:16 , 00:04:19:05 , Lauris was a very important place for| growing dye plants 00:04:19:10 , 00:04:23:29 , for many factories, all around | in big cities, 00:04:24:12 , 00:04:25:03 , and also, 00:04:25:15 , 00:04:30:15 , the Lords of Lauris, who created| this garden originally for 00:04:30:20 , 00:04:32:29 , a decoration garden, 00:04:33:04 , 00:04:36:02 , they had their fortune from harvesting 00:04:36:07 , 00:04:39:11 , a local insect called 'Kermes' 00:04:39:16 , 00:04:41:25 , for the very very precious red. 00:04:42:02 , 00:04:44:22 , So, because of that| cultural heritage, 00:04:45:04 , 00:04:47:27 , which is very precious locally,| I decided 00:04:48:17 , 00:04:51:07 , to work in this abandoned| ground to 00:04:51:12 , 00:04:57:14 , redo a new garden dedicated to | dye plants from all over the world. 00:04:57:18 , 00:04:59:22 , Can you show us some samples 00:04:59:27 , 00:05:03:05 , of this historical European Provençal| textile industry? 00:05:03:10 , 00:05:06:22 , Of course. Please,| just follow me now. 00:05:06:27 , 00:05:19:13 , ♪ Music ♪ 00:05:20:00 , 00:05:22:29 , Show me some historical textiles. 00:05:23:04 , 00:05:25:02 , So this piece, 00:05:25:07 , 00:05:29:25 , is very old, probably from the| late 18th Century, 00:05:30:00 , 00:05:34:08 , and as you may notice,| there are about 3 different shades. 00:05:34:13 , 00:05:37:23 , Pink, red and brownish violet. 00:05:37:28 , 00:05:42:23 , But what you must realize is that| all of these shades were made together 00:05:42:28 , 00:05:46:09 , in the same dye bath| from 'Madder Root'. 00:05:47:00 , 00:05:49:13 , The important point is 00:05:49:18 , 00:05:53:18 , the preparation of the fixing agents | we call 'mordants'. 00:05:54:17 , 00:05:58:15 , Another one will be very attractive| as well -- very very fine, 00:05:58:29 , 00:06:00:09 , with brown, 00:06:00:13 , 00:06:02:14 , red, and violet together. 00:06:02:20 , 00:06:04:10 , About the same preparation. 00:06:04:20 , 00:06:08:20 , So Madder was the very| important plant in Provence. 00:06:08:25 , 00:06:11:05 , Most of the pieces, 00:06:11:10 , 00:06:14:03 , you can see that there is| some madder in it -- this one 00:06:14:15 , 00:06:18:01 , red again, purple again,| and some yellowish shades 00:06:18:06 , 00:06:20:24 , at the same time from probably| another plant 00:06:20:29 , 00:06:23:23 , but Madder is the full background. 00:06:24:02 , 00:06:25:25 , For this one, 00:06:26:08 , 00:06:27:28 , the very nice design, 00:06:28:11 , 00:06:30:10 , is made with madder red, 00:06:30:26 , 00:06:34:28 , and then over-dyed with Indigo in | order to get that kind 00:06:35:09 , 00:06:38:14 , of special -- oh, yes,| look at this, 00:06:38:19 , 00:06:41:19 , that kind of very special blue, 00:06:42:02 , 00:06:47:21 , a little bit turquoise because of| this pinkish background, 00:06:47:26 , 00:06:48:19 , at the same time. 00:06:48:24 , 00:06:50:01 , Beautiful color! 00:06:50:06 , 00:06:51:28 , Yes, and then, 00:06:52:12 , 00:06:55:07 , lots of different samples| will show you 00:06:55:12 , 00:06:56:28 , how it works. 00:06:57:03 , 00:07:00:08 , So the big goal of the artist| was to 00:07:00:13 , 00:07:02:25 , use quite a lot of reagents 00:07:03:00 , 00:07:06:28 , and combine them in order to get| that polychromatic effect. 00:07:07:03 , 00:07:08:20 , It's remarkable. 00:07:09:06 , 00:07:11:18 , For example, I will show you, 00:07:11:29 , 00:07:15:15 , This other one which is very| attractive as well. 00:07:15:20 , 00:07:18:00 , Because the background is green, 00:07:18:05 , 00:07:19:29 , the flowers are red, 00:07:20:04 , 00:07:24:15 , and there is still some yellow and| blue on the same piece. 00:07:24:20 , 00:07:29:13 , It means they prepared first blue| and white resist, 00:07:29:18 , 00:07:34:18 , and they over-dyed with madder and| even added some yellow color. 00:07:35:04 , 00:07:37:08 , So it's quite a long process 00:07:37:13 , 00:07:40:21 , but, that's the secret of that kind| of fabrics. 00:07:40:26 , 00:07:44:03 , I will show some of it| in this workshop. 00:07:44:11 , 00:07:46:16 , Are we going to learn how | to do this? 00:07:46:21 , 00:07:50:29 , Yes, but, look at this one| this is very important 00:07:51:04 , 00:07:53:16 , this is probably the crucial point. 00:07:53:28 , 00:07:55:25 , This lovely fabric 00:07:56:00 , 00:07:58:27 , has been dyed in black with some 00:07:59:12 , 00:08:03:08 , very interesting and fine blue 00:08:03:20 , 00:08:05:09 , and red designs, but, 00:08:05:14 , 00:08:07:24 , the fabric is really damaged. 00:08:07:29 , 00:08:09:12 , It's probably 00:08:09:17 , 00:08:15:01 , from the early 19th Century, but| the cotton didn't bear it. 00:08:15:21 , 00:08:21:08 , It's so intricate. It's a shame| the ground is breaking away. 00:08:21:13 , 00:08:27:12 , The main problem for the dyer, in | order to get a very dark black, 00:08:27:26 , 00:08:29:13 , blackish shade, 00:08:29:18 , 00:08:33:04 , the dyer at this period used| ferrous nitrate, 00:08:33:17 , 00:08:35:07 , which was very corrosive. 00:08:35:21 , 00:08:36:20 , So, 00:08:36:24 , 00:08:40:06 , after maybe 150 years, then 00:08:40:11 , 00:08:45:05 , the holes are appearing and the| fabric is very weak. 00:08:45:17 , 00:08:47:03 , That's the reason why 00:08:47:22 , 00:08:50:14 , I will take care to show you 00:08:50:18 , 00:08:55:01 , very simple ways,| but very safe products 00:08:55:06 , 00:08:57:18 , in order to respect the fiber 00:08:57:23 , 00:08:59:21 , and to respect the dyer. 00:08:59:26 , 00:09:04:01 , So it was not only | corrosive to the fabric, 00:09:04:06 , 00:09:08:17 , it might be harmful for the dyers| and the environment. 00:09:08:22 , 00:09:11:18 , Well, some of them, in some | pieces. 00:09:11:23 , 00:09:13:27 , for example these yellows, 00:09:14:02 , 00:09:15:23 , are from heavy metals. 00:09:15:28 , 00:09:18:17 , They used lead acetate, 00:09:18:22 , 00:09:20:27 , together with chromium salt. 00:09:21:02 , 00:09:23:22 , So we will not redo it [this way]. 00:09:23:26 , 00:09:28:26 , It's probably the only way they could| find at that moment 00:09:29:01 , 00:09:31:27 , to do it, but I will present| some alternatives. 00:09:32:02 , 00:09:36:12 , So you will show us the| alternative which is safe to do. 00:09:36:16 , 00:09:37:03 , Of course. 00:09:37:08 , 00:09:38:20 , Wonderful! 00:09:39:02 , 00:09:42:10 , Now I understand how these colors | were placed, 00:09:42:15 , 00:09:45:01 , but how did they print these designs? 00:09:45:16 , 00:09:49:05 , Well, look at these very old| documents, they are from 00:09:49:10 , 00:09:53:17 , 1760, from the| 'Grande Encyclopédie' 00:09:53:22 , 00:09:58:18 , and then, some plates are showing| the process, step by step. 00:09:58:23 , 00:10:02:15 , They first carved some pieces| of wood 00:10:02:20 , 00:10:04:24 , as this poplar wood, 00:10:04:29 , 00:10:11:04 , they applied the design, they carved| it, and used it like that. 00:10:11:25 , 00:10:13:07 , As a very big stamp. 00:10:13:19 , 00:10:18:18 , They used these big stamps to cover| the whole part of the textile. 00:10:18:23 , 00:10:21:25 , And several stamps were| overlapping, 00:10:22:08 , 00:10:25:11 , in order to get this| polychromatic effect. 00:10:25:27 , 00:10:28:19 , You must know that this plate 00:10:28:26 , 00:10:33:01 , is very old, and at some period,| they started using 00:10:33:06 , 00:10:37:03 , copper carved plates and| even rolls. 00:10:37:26 , 00:10:42:16 , So depending on the period, you may| understand exactly 00:10:42:21 , 00:10:44:17 , how they did it and you can 00:10:45:02 , 00:10:48:15 , get an idea of the period of the| fabric you have got. 00:10:49:01 , 00:10:53:10 , But we don't have to carve hard wood| to make the blocks? 00:10:53:20 , 00:10:57:02 , Well for this workshop I will present| to you a very simple 00:10:57:07 , 00:10:59:17 , way of doing your own block 00:10:59:24 , 00:11:02:27 , with modern materials and| a simple cutter 00:11:03:01 , 00:11:05:09 , and this will be developed | in the course 00:11:05:14 , 00:11:08:20 , in order to get it easy for| the artist. 00:11:08:24 , 00:11:12:26 , Great. Tell us about| Indigo a little bit more. 00:11:13:19 , 00:11:16:12 , Well, Indigo is a huge subject. 00:11:16:27 , 00:11:18:20 , It's very very attractive. 00:11:19:01 , 00:11:22:18 , So I will show you first| some dried leaves. 00:11:22:23 , 00:11:26:29 , Some of these dried leaves are | interesting. 00:11:27:04 , 00:11:30:05 , You can see that 00:11:30:10 , 00:11:36:09 , after the drying process, the leaves| are quite blueish. 00:11:36:13 , 00:11:38:26 , Which is not the case in nature. 00:11:39:13 , 00:11:40:20 , So, 00:11:40:25 , 00:11:44:27 , it means that the drying process| is modifying the composition. 00:11:45:23 , 00:11:50:19 , In fact, the drying process| is an oxidizing process. 00:11:51:01 , 00:11:54:23 , So the blue is appearing when| oxidized. 00:11:54:28 , 00:11:58:15 , This is an interesting lesson 00:11:58:20 , 00:12:04:03 , and, remember, in some cases,| if you just print the leaves 00:12:04:08 , 00:12:07:26 , like that on the piece of fabric,| by hammering the leaves, 00:12:08:00 , 00:12:12:24 , then by simply oxidizing| to the sun you will get 00:12:13:10 , 00:12:18:22 , that print which is really really| a strong dye 00:12:18:27 , 00:12:21:22 , you can even wash it several| times if you want. 00:12:21:27 , 00:12:23:24 , And we don't need mordants? 00:12:24:07 , 00:12:27:05 , You don't need mordant.| I will show you 00:12:27:10 , 00:12:30:15 , first step maybe would be| interesting to show 00:12:30:20 , 00:12:34:03 , how to extract first the color| from the leaf, 00:12:34:08 , 00:12:39:26 , and then use the blue extract to go| on with a dyeing process. 00:12:40:08 , 00:12:44:04 , So if you would like,| let's go on now 00:12:44:17 , 00:12:48:00 , to the workshop and let's start| with extracting Indigo. 00:12:48:05 , 00:12:49:12 , From fresh leaves? 00:12:49:17 , 00:12:53:07 , Yes of course, from fresh leaves| we have to harvest in nature. 00:12:53:12 , 00:12:54:25 , Wonderful! 00:12:55:00 , 00:13:07:23 , ♪ Music ♪ 00:13:10:16 , 00:13:11:14 , Here, 00:13:11:28 , 00:13:15:19 , we have got two indigo plants --| this is the famous Woad, 00:13:16:07 , 00:13:17:12 , European Indigo, 00:13:17:25 , 00:13:21:28 , and this is Strobilanthes Cusia,| which is Chinese Indigo. 00:13:22:13 , 00:13:26:21 , By hammering the leaves, we will| extract the sap 00:13:27:05 , 00:13:28:18 , and see how it does. 00:13:29:26 , 00:13:32:27 , Hammering leaves is a very attractive| practice 00:13:33:14 , 00:13:35:17 , to get immediate results. 00:13:36:01 , 00:13:38:17 , So we put the leaf like that 00:13:38:29 , 00:13:40:00 , on the piece of fabric, 00:13:40:13 , 00:13:42:24 , and then we cover it | with the second piece, 00:13:43:08 , 00:13:46:12 , and then we are ready to hammer the| leaves. 00:13:55:25 , 00:13:58:11 , Now the print is done,| so let's open it 00:13:59:23 , 00:14:00:16 , and, 00:14:00:24 , 00:14:05:08 , let's wait a moment for the| oxidization of the sap. 00:14:06:12 , 00:14:10:11 , During the drying process the sap| has been oxidized. 00:14:10:24 , 00:14:13:02 , That's the reason why| it turns blue. 00:14:13:14 , 00:14:15:20 , Now we have to separate 00:14:16:05 , 00:14:19:14 , the chlorophyll from the Indigo. 00:14:19:16 , 00:14:21:28 , Indigo is very colorfast| to washings, 00:14:22:05 , 00:14:24:16 , while chlorophyll will very soon| disappear. 00:14:25:07 , 00:14:26:25 , So, now I will 00:14:27:18 , 00:14:29:24 , put it in this 00:14:30:09 , 00:14:34:20 , soapy solution, in order to | remove the chlorophyll 00:14:34:28 , 00:14:39:10 , and look for the very pure| blue I promised to you. 00:14:41:00 , 00:14:43:20 , The green chlorophyll| disappears, and, 00:14:44:09 , 00:14:46:21 , the Indigo is just coming 00:14:47:09 , 00:14:51:01 , at the surface as a very| fast dye. 00:15:00:18 , 00:15:02:19 , There are more than 250 different 00:15:02:23 , 00:15:04:20 , kinds of plants which contain 00:15:04:23 , 00:15:06:07 , some amount of Indigo pigment 00:15:06:22 , 00:15:08:19 , growing all over the world. 00:15:09:12 , 00:15:12:17 , About 10 contain enough pigment to be 00:15:12:22 , 00:15:14:11 , practical as a source 00:15:14:15 , 00:15:16:14 , for dye extraction. 00:15:16:26 , 00:15:18:17 , They are known by several different 00:15:18:21 , 00:15:20:21 , Latin botanical names, 00:15:21:10 , 00:15:22:04 , however, 00:15:22:08 , 00:15:23:24 , they are commonly referred to 00:15:24:02 , 00:15:26:04 , simply as 'Indigo'. 00:15:26:23 , 00:15:28:28 , In this Workshop, Michel will 00:15:29:05 , 00:15:33:12 , present a method to extract| Indigo from leaves of Woad, 00:15:33:26 , 00:15:36:00 , a plant widely grown in Europe and 00:15:36:09 , 00:15:38:00 , the United Kingdom 00:15:38:18 , 00:15:40:09 , since the Middle Ages, 00:15:40:17 , 00:15:42:01 , as it is hearty and 00:15:42:02 , 00:15:43:24 , withstands cold weather. 00:15:44:04 , 00:15:48:29 , He then moves on to show an | ingenious way to use resist paste 00:15:49:03 , 00:15:52:25 , to achieve multiple shades of| blue from a simple dye bath. 00:15:53:12 , 00:15:55:27 , Reduced with organic materials. 00:16:01:00 , 00:16:03:12 , This is European Indigo -- this is Woad. 00:16:03:29 , 00:16:06:00 , I just picked it in the garden now, 00:16:06:14 , 00:16:10:08 , and I collected together some| fresh leaves 00:16:10:08 , 00:16:13:19 , which has been collected very| recently and must be 00:16:13:21 , 00:16:15:10 , used very quickly because 00:16:16:16 , 00:16:20:09 , from the fresh sap to the pigment| it's very easy 00:16:20:18 , 00:16:22:25 , but if you wait too long, 00:16:23:07 , 00:16:25:05 , it will be much more| difficult. 00:16:25:18 , 00:16:27:22 , So the method is very simple. 00:16:28:05 , 00:16:31:17 , I just put the leaves in a beaker, 00:16:41:07 , 00:16:43:14 , add some hot water, 00:16:43:18 , 00:16:45:28 , and just do a kind of infusion. 00:16:46:15 , 00:16:51:03 , As with all kinds of infusion, we| must wait about 15 minutes 00:16:51:16 , 00:16:54:06 , in order to extract the sap| from the leaves 00:16:54:18 , 00:16:58:03 , and then after 15 minutes, we will| just keep the 00:16:58:20 , 00:17:03:02 , juice for the subsequent step. 00:17:04:12 , 00:17:08:04 , Okay that's enough.| Let's wait for 15 minutes. 00:17:09:10 , 00:17:13:01 , This needs to set a bit more.| While we wait, 00:17:13:16 , 00:17:17:03 , I will prepare the main reagent| for this operation 00:17:17:11 , 00:17:19:23 , which is lime water. 00:17:20:00 , 00:17:22:23 , I will just use some| ordinary lime 00:17:23:03 , 00:17:24:08 , or, 00:17:24:25 , 00:17:28:15 , the home-made lime from| oyster shells I burned 00:17:29:02 , 00:17:30:08 , in my kiln. 00:17:30:14 , 00:17:32:10 , So let's just put 00:17:32:19 , 00:17:34:29 , the lime in the water, 00:17:37:11 , 00:17:38:29 , turn it a little bit, 00:17:40:11 , 00:17:42:06 , maybe add a bit more, 00:17:42:23 , 00:17:43:27 , and then, 00:17:44:08 , 00:17:48:00 , at that moment we must wait for the | lime to settle 00:17:48:08 , 00:17:52:05 , to the bottom to keep the very| clear juice for the operation. 00:17:53:12 , 00:17:56:18 , So it will take a couple of minutes| more. 00:17:56:23 , 00:18:02:14 , We just need a saturated solution --| no matter the amount of lime, really, 00:18:02:14 , 00:18:03:27 , we just have to wait 00:18:04:01 , 00:18:05:29 , for it to settle to the bottom. 00:18:06:12 , 00:18:08:20 , So now we wait. 00:18:11:18 , 00:18:12:25 , Actually, 00:18:13:06 , 00:18:14:13 , the infusion is ready, 00:18:14:27 , 00:18:16:13 , so let's just 00:18:17:03 , 00:18:20:26 , keep the liquid in this second pot| so as you can see 00:18:21:03 , 00:18:26:20 , the liquid is yellowish first, 00:18:41:27 , 00:18:43:17 , One leaf....in... 00:18:44:11 , 00:18:45:11 , Okay. 00:18:45:14 , 00:18:47:05 , So this we don't need anymore. 00:18:47:27 , 00:18:48:22 , And then, 00:18:48:25 , 00:18:50:15 , I must add some 00:18:50:25 , 00:18:54:02 , air to it, I will pour it again| to the second one, 00:18:54:12 , 00:18:57:11 , several times in order to put| air in it 00:18:57:17 , 00:19:01:02 , because this air is very necessary| for the oxygenation. 00:19:01:27 , 00:19:03:08 , So let's do it. 00:19:22:19 , 00:19:28:21 , ...about 10 or 20 times,| is very good. 00:19:29:03 , 00:19:32:25 , In case you have a very big pot| just use a pump. 00:19:33:06 , 00:19:37:11 , To remove the liquid from one| pot to the other. 00:19:46:00 , 00:19:47:03 , And now, 00:19:47:10 , 00:19:48:03 , remember, 00:19:48:14 , 00:19:51:11 , you must add this lime water 00:19:52:01 , 00:19:54:05 , it's very very important| so I put 00:19:54:22 , 00:19:57:03 , a small amount of lime water 00:19:57:18 , 00:19:59:23 , then the liquid is changing. 00:20:00:09 , 00:20:02:18 , It becomes a little bit green. 00:20:03:02 , 00:20:08:00 , Look at this -- it becomes a bit| greenish now, so, 00:20:08:02 , 00:20:11:16 , let's pursue the oxygenating| process 00:20:11:24 , 00:20:15:21 , until the bubbles at the surface| become blueish. 00:20:16:16 , 00:20:18:04 , So we have to do it 00:20:18:08 , 00:20:23:10 , several times, and| the very green liquid, 00:20:23:19 , 00:20:28:28 , is made with flavonoids -- yellow| coloring matter from the plant 00:20:28:28 , 00:20:30:19 , and Indigo -- together. 00:20:30:27 , 00:20:35:18 , But the Indigo is appearing as| kinds of particles 00:20:35:29 , 00:20:37:27 , the Indigo is not| soluble in water. 00:20:38:12 , 00:20:41:07 , So it would settle| at the bottom 00:20:41:28 , 00:20:44:24 , or we may choose to filter| it in a cloth. 00:20:45:02 , 00:20:46:24 , We'll do this afterwards. 00:20:46:28 , 00:20:50:15 , First, let's oxygenate it very well, 00:20:50:24 , 00:20:54:13 , in order to be sure we saved| the whole 00:20:54:28 , 00:20:58:12 , quantity of Indigo which was | in the liquid. 00:20:58:25 , 00:21:02:07 , So the liquid is coming| darker and darker, 00:21:03:14 , 00:21:04:19 , So, 00:21:05:00 , 00:21:09:19 , it means that we are on| the right path. 00:21:29:04 , 00:21:33:19 , This is enough. Let's wait a couple| of seconds and filter it afterwards. 00:21:34:12 , 00:21:37:07 , So the blue I am looking for| is appearing 00:21:37:17 , 00:21:40:18 , at the surface but as well in| the liquid as particles 00:21:41:04 , 00:21:46:26 , so let's finish this process,| and then we are ready for filtering. 00:21:48:11 , 00:21:51:03 , The filtering process is very easy. 00:21:51:14 , 00:21:52:27 , You need a funnel, 00:21:53:08 , 00:21:56:12 , a piece of cloth on the funnel, 00:21:58:21 , 00:22:01:25 , and then you just have to| pour it gently 00:22:02:15 , 00:22:05:27 , inside in order to separate the| particles from the liquid. 00:22:06:22 , 00:22:10:26 , So the first time, some particles| will go through, 00:22:11:12 , 00:22:13:17 , so we will do it twice. 00:22:18:29 , 00:22:21:06 , Okay, it's coming... 00:22:24:13 , 00:22:27:16 , We have to look after this liquid --| it must be yellow, 00:22:27:21 , 00:22:30:23 , it's still green, so it's not| totally done. 00:22:31:00 , 00:22:33:10 , So we will reuse this liquid| afterwards. 00:22:33:13 , 00:22:36:07 , Let's finish filtering| the first one. 00:22:46:13 , 00:22:47:13 , Okay. 00:22:47:20 , 00:22:49:14 , Let's wait a little bit. 00:22:49:23 , 00:22:52:24 , Then, the pigment is appearing| at the surface of the cloth 00:22:53:25 , 00:22:55:25 , as a very dark blue, 00:22:56:23 , 00:22:58:17 , then, when we finish 00:22:59:05 , 00:23:05:15 , this operation we just have to dry it| and it's ready for the dyeing process. 00:23:07:17 , 00:23:09:28 , So I promised to redo it, 00:23:10:09 , 00:23:12:21 , so now the liquid is yellowish. 00:23:12:28 , 00:23:18:14 , so this is the right moment| for finishing the thing, so 00:23:18:14 , 00:23:19:20 , by adding this one, 00:23:20:22 , 00:23:22:15 , in order not to waste, 00:23:23:14 , 00:23:24:29 , and that's all. 00:23:25:08 , 00:23:27:25 , We just have to wait a little bit, 00:23:28:12 , 00:23:30:11 , until the liquid is going through 00:23:30:22 , 00:23:36:01 , and then we will rinse the pigment| a little bit with simple water 00:23:36:13 , 00:23:38:03 , and then it is done. 00:23:39:07 , 00:23:41:16 , Oh, look at this beautiful pigment! 00:23:42:11 , 00:23:45:02 , we just have to rinse it | in order to separate 00:23:45:14 , 00:23:48:20 , this yellowish shade| from flavonoid. 00:23:49:08 , 00:23:54:23 , To the pigment by itself so I will| just rinse it with this water 00:24:04:02 , 00:24:06:14 , Let's finish the washing process, 00:24:06:22 , 00:24:09:04 , and then the only thing we have to do 00:24:09:09 , 00:24:12:24 , is to wait for it to be dried | and this is our pigment. 00:24:23:13 , 00:24:24:29 , Now you can understand 00:24:25:13 , 00:24:27:13 , that for preparing the dye vat 00:24:27:23 , 00:24:29:25 , you just need three things: 00:24:30:12 , 00:24:32:13 , we will use some| Indigo pigment, 00:24:32:28 , 00:24:34:12 , it may be that paste, 00:24:34:23 , 00:24:37:20 , or the dried pigment| from this jar, 00:24:38:09 , 00:24:41:25 , when the drying process is achieved| we crush it and store it 00:24:41:29 , 00:24:43:18 , as a dried powder. 00:24:43:27 , 00:24:45:22 , So this is the first thing| we will use. 00:24:46:10 , 00:24:47:10 , The second thing 00:24:47:12 , 00:24:50:07 , I propose to reuse the lime 00:24:50:14 , 00:24:54:13 , because it's a very interesting| very natural base, 00:24:54:27 , 00:24:56:03 , and the third thing, 00:24:56:15 , 00:24:59:08 , is called an 'antioxidant'| because 00:24:59:17 , 00:25:03:16 , we don't need oxygen in the vat| because oxygen 00:25:04:08 , 00:25:06:17 , will bring the Indigo 00:25:07:06 , 00:25:09:01 , at the insoluble form, 00:25:09:20 , 00:25:11:25 , so we need to remove the| oxygen 00:25:12:10 , 00:25:13:11 , we put in, 00:25:13:15 , 00:25:15:09 , in order to dissolve it again. 00:25:15:12 , 00:25:17:03 , So first thing is Indigo, 00:25:17:16 , 00:25:22:12 , second thing is lime,| and third thing is antioxidant. And 00:25:23:02 , 00:25:25:16 , because we have a lot of | antioxidant 00:25:26:05 , 00:25:28:29 , matters all around us,| I will present to you 00:25:29:18 , 00:25:33:29 , a few which are very easy to find| in your environment. 00:25:36:24 , 00:25:39:08 , Now let's start with the| quick Indigo Vat. 00:25:39:29 , 00:25:42:13 , I call it the vat| '1-2-3!' 00:25:42:26 , 00:25:45:00 , because it is | very easy to remember. 00:25:45:17 , 00:25:48:02 , 1 Part of Indigo, 00:25:48:26 , 00:25:50:29 , 2 Parts of lime, 00:25:51:13 , 00:25:53:22 , 3 parts of Fruit Sugar 00:25:54:08 , 00:25:57:16 , must be added together| with hot water 00:25:58:07 , 00:26:00:11 , and after a while, it works. 00:26:00:27 , 00:26:05:23 , But be careful -- you cannot use| ordinary table sugar, 00:26:06:00 , 00:26:08:06 , it must be fructose. 00:26:08:19 , 00:26:12:07 , So, let's prepare first| the Indigo. 00:26:14:06 , 00:26:16:19 , For example I suggest 00:26:17:13 , 00:26:19:13 , 10 grams Vat 00:26:24:27 , 00:26:25:29 , Okay. 00:26:30:26 , 00:26:33:15 , The second point is the lime. 00:26:33:21 , 00:26:38:28 , Actually, I will use some| shellfish lime, 00:26:39:10 , 00:26:43:01 , from burned oyster shells| I prepared by myself, 00:26:43:12 , 00:26:47:18 , so 2 Parts is then 20 Grams, 00:26:57:20 , 00:27:03:29 , and then 3 Parts of Sugar,| which is about 30 Grams. 00:27:14:04 , 00:27:15:06 , Okay. 00:27:15:28 , 00:27:20:17 , Now we must work on the | compatibility of the materials. 00:27:21:06 , 00:27:23:24 , As you know, Indigo is not| soluble in water. 00:27:24:00 , 00:27:27:29 , that is the reason why we are able| to filter it in a piece of cloth. 00:27:28:17 , 00:27:30:17 , so if you just put this powder 00:27:31:09 , 00:27:32:29 , in the water, it will float! 00:27:33:08 , 00:27:35:19 , And take a lot of time| to be dissolved. 00:27:36:04 , 00:27:37:22 , Whatever stuff you use. 00:27:38:02 , 00:27:41:19 , So first of all, we will| crush this Indigo powder 00:27:42:03 , 00:27:45:23 , with a very very simple apparatus| I just discovered. 00:27:46:11 , 00:27:50:10 , I will put it together in this jar| with glass marbles 00:27:50:22 , 00:27:53:29 , then adding some water,| I will shake it, 00:27:54:09 , 00:27:58:02 , gently, and the it will crush| carefully the Indigo 00:27:58:04 , 00:28:03:05 , and hydrate the matter in order to| put it in suspension in water. 00:28:08:09 , 00:28:10:23 , So first, the Indigo, 00:28:28:17 , 00:28:29:29 , then I add 00:28:30:03 , 00:28:32:03 , a small amount of water, 00:28:32:14 , 00:28:35:15 , just enough to cover the marbles,| that's all. 00:28:36:01 , 00:28:37:10 , And then, 00:28:38:23 , 00:28:40:04 , I have to close it 00:28:40:12 , 00:28:44:05 , and just shake it like this, | and then by shaking it, 00:28:44:20 , 00:28:46:28 , I will crush it really | carefully. 00:28:53:10 , 00:28:55:14 , So now the Indigo is prepared, 00:28:56:04 , 00:28:58:18 , and then I just have to prepare| the lime. 00:29:00:27 , 00:29:01:29 , The lime will be 00:29:02:27 , 00:29:06:05 , crushed carefully in this mortar 00:29:06:23 , 00:29:10:12 , easily because it's very well | cooked in a very 00:29:10:12 , 00:29:15:08 , smooth lime from shells, 00:29:16:02 , 00:29:17:05 , and then, 00:29:17:10 , 00:29:18:18 , okay that's enough. 00:29:18:24 , 00:29:23:19 , Sugar doesn't need to be prepared| because it's very soluble in water. 00:29:24:07 , 00:29:28:20 , So now let's go on with the | preparation of the vat by itself. 00:29:29:26 , 00:29:32:17 , I need to grind it a little bit more. 00:29:47:07 , 00:29:52:10 , We really have to shake it because| we want to hydrate totally the pigment 00:29:52:23 , 00:29:57:08 , if you don't do it, you will waste| about 90% of your pigment. 00:29:57:21 , 00:30:01:02 , So that's a very very | important point. 00:30:06:13 , 00:30:07:21 , This is ready now. 00:30:07:29 , 00:30:09:12 , Now, let's start 00:30:09:27 , 00:30:11:10 , making the vat by itself. 00:30:11:17 , 00:30:16:09 , So this is my vat -- my favorite| stainless steel pot. 00:30:16:24 , 00:30:19:18 , The pot must be absolutely 00:30:20:07 , 00:30:22:05 , narrow and deep. 00:30:22:21 , 00:30:25:16 , The very bad idea would be| for example 00:30:25:27 , 00:30:28:08 , to use that kind of pot| very large 00:30:28:23 , 00:30:29:28 , because remember, 00:30:30:09 , 00:30:34:26 , the crucial point is to avoid oxygen| to go in, 00:30:35:11 , 00:30:38:06 , so with a very large plate, 00:30:38:17 , 00:30:40:22 , a lot of oxygen will enter 00:30:41:01 , 00:30:45:02 , gradually in the pot so this| vat will not be so efficient 00:30:45:12 , 00:30:48:09 , so because of this narrow pot, 00:30:48:20 , 00:30:50:21 , we will be very successful. 00:30:51:20 , 00:30:52:10 , Now, 00:30:52:19 , 00:30:55:26 , first of all we need hot water | to start. 00:31:06:25 , 00:31:08:14 , Second step, 00:31:08:21 , 00:31:13:25 , You add your very well crushed| indigo, it must be like 00:31:14:01 , 00:31:19:12 , a very fluid and deep solution with| no particles in it 00:31:19:21 , 00:31:21:13 , this is very important 00:31:21:18 , 00:31:24:03 , and then in order not to waste, 00:31:24:12 , 00:31:30:24 , you even can rinse the marbles if| you want with a small amount of water 00:31:31:06 , 00:31:36:14 , so the totality of the Indigo | will go in the vat. 00:31:40:20 , 00:31:42:00 , That's all. 00:31:42:01 , 00:31:47:27 , Then third point is| adding the sugar. 00:31:52:27 , 00:31:55:02 , stirring a little bit, 00:31:55:04 , 00:31:59:13 , in order to dissolve easily the sugar,| and now, 00:31:59:23 , 00:32:02:10 , I may finish with the lime. 00:32:03:05 , 00:32:06:19 , So this very well crushed lime 00:32:09:10 , 00:32:12:21 , will achieve the vat.| And now, 00:32:12:26 , 00:32:17:01 , that's all - we just have to wait| about 10 minutes 00:32:17:01 , 00:32:19:23 , before improving the vat. 00:32:20:25 , 00:32:24:00 , About proportions of water,| you must know that 00:32:24:15 , 00:32:26:19 , if you dilute your vat with water, 00:32:26:19 , 00:32:29:25 , it will give paler colors than with| a concentrated vat. 00:32:30:20 , 00:32:32:25 , So, it depends on your project. 00:32:33:13 , 00:32:35:09 , I can redo the same proportions with 00:32:35:14 , 00:32:38:03 , 10 liters of water for a very| pale color 00:32:38:17 , 00:32:41:04 , or with 1/2 liter for a very| dark color, 00:32:41:26 , 00:32:42:19 , I can do 00:32:43:09 , 00:32:45:10 , I can put double 00:32:45:10 , 00:32:49:10 , weight of each matter, but it is| still a vat 1-2-3. 00:32:49:24 , 00:32:53:01 , For example, in order to do it| simple for dipping 00:32:53:17 , 00:32:54:13 , the samples, 00:32:54:26 , 00:32:57:07 , I will just add some more water, 00:33:05:12 , 00:33:07:24 , this does not change the recipe. 00:33:07:28 , 00:33:10:29 , It is still a vat 1-2-3| whatever you use 00:33:11:09 , 00:33:15:20 , a minimum or maximum of water| depending on the shade you want. 00:33:16:11 , 00:33:19:20 , Now I would like to stir a little| bit the liquid in order to 00:33:19:26 , 00:33:23:23 , be sure that the lime is not down | at the bottom of the pot. 00:33:27:10 , 00:33:32:06 , that's all - be careful of not adding| so much oxygen in, 00:33:32:14 , 00:33:35:22 , so just stir like that --| from the middle, 00:33:37:10 , 00:33:40:11 , because that way | you just stir 00:33:40:16 , 00:33:44:07 , the bottom but not| the surface 00:33:44:24 , 00:33:47:17 , And now, look at the| surface. 00:33:48:02 , 00:33:50:03 , This is interesting, because 00:33:50:15 , 00:33:52:23 , the liquid is covered with 00:33:52:25 , 00:33:55:16 , a kind of coppery coat, 00:33:55:22 , 00:33:59:16 , some blue bubbles appear at| the surface, and, 00:34:00:05 , 00:34:03:09 , in case I have to observe | the liquid, 00:34:04:01 , 00:34:07:20 , now it is just coming| a little bit greenish. 00:34:08:16 , 00:34:10:09 , The bubbles are very dark, 00:34:10:19 , 00:34:13:11 , and then when all these 3 things| are together -- 00:34:13:25 , 00:34:16:04 , the coppery cover, 00:34:16:10 , 00:34:21:25 , the dark bubbles, and green liquid --| then we are ready to start. 00:34:23:22 , 00:34:26:07 , Now we are waiting for 15 minutes, 00:34:26:12 , 00:34:30:02 , so the vat is ready for| experiments. 00:34:30:15 , 00:34:33:10 , Not for all purposes, but let's| have a look on 00:34:33:22 , 00:34:35:17 , a small experiment now. 00:34:37:10 , 00:34:39:10 , Let's have a look on the liquid now. 00:34:40:14 , 00:34:42:00 , I will just take 00:34:42:27 , 00:34:44:06 , some, 00:34:45:00 , 00:34:46:00 , parts 00:34:46:09 , 00:34:48:25 , and you can see easily that 00:34:48:25 , 00:34:52:05 , it is yellowish, but remember| that it comes 00:34:52:14 , 00:34:56:13 , blue again very easily at the surface| and everywhere because 00:34:56:21 , 00:34:58:02 , it is oxidizing. 00:34:58:02 , 00:35:02:20 , So that's the reason why we don't | remove frequently the liquid 00:35:03:14 , 00:35:07:06 , In this yellow juice,| there's no more indigo 00:35:07:13 , 00:35:09:21 , just dissolved indigo 00:35:09:28 , 00:35:13:05 , which is the precursor of indigo| which is called 'indican'. 00:35:13:12 , 00:35:15:21 , This is the real coloring matter. 00:35:16:07 , 00:35:18:13 , So, this yellow thing 00:35:18:13 , 00:35:21:22 , is very very precious and must not| be oxidized 00:35:21:23 , 00:35:23:08 , in case you oxidize, 00:35:23:14 , 00:35:26:17 , it comes blue again, and it| will not dye so well. 00:35:27:22 , 00:35:30:07 , So I suggest not adding this| to the vat. 00:35:30:07 , 00:35:32:12 , because it has been a little bit| oxidized. 00:35:33:00 , 00:35:36:02 , so forget it for a while,| and now let's try to 00:35:36:20 , 00:35:40:16 , improve the vat with this| small, silk handkerchief. 00:35:40:19 , 00:35:43:23 , the dyeing process is really simple,| the master point 00:35:44:04 , 00:35:45:14 , how to do the vat but 00:35:45:18 , 00:35:47:28 , how to use the vat is very simple. 00:35:47:28 , 00:35:50:01 , I just dip this piece 00:35:50:23 , 00:35:54:04 , and then I will wait for about 00:35:54:14 , 00:35:56:14 , 3-5 minutes 00:35:57:07 , 00:35:59:21 , and then you will see how it is. 00:36:01:22 , 00:36:05:09 , Now let's have a look on the silk | fabric. 00:36:10:18 , 00:36:13:02 , The silk fabric will appear 00:36:14:04 , 00:36:15:25 , of a greenish shade, 00:36:16:08 , 00:36:18:26 , which is the intermediate state 00:36:19:11 , 00:36:23:29 , between reduced indigo which is| colorless and 00:36:24:06 , 00:36:27:05 , oxygenated one which| is blue. 00:36:27:21 , 00:36:30:20 , So it is gradually turning| from 00:36:31:02 , 00:36:33:05 , greenish yellow to blue, 00:36:33:12 , 00:36:37:10 , and then I suggest to rinse it| in order to improve this 00:36:38:02 , 00:36:39:26 , change of color. 00:36:49:26 , 00:36:51:23 , So now -- okay, it comes 00:36:52:05 , 00:36:56:17 , dark green and it will soon be | converted into a blue shade 00:36:57:08 , 00:36:58:17 , and then, 00:36:58:28 , 00:37:01:17 , in case I want a deeper shade, 00:37:01:29 , 00:37:03:20 , I will have to dip it again. 00:37:03:26 , 00:37:09:15 , But first let's wait for it to come| blue before dipping it again. 00:37:16:27 , 00:37:19:03 , Look at the temperature.| Actually, 00:37:19:16 , 00:37:22:02 , it is below 50 degrees °C, 00:37:22:28 , 00:37:24:21 , so we can start. 00:37:25:06 , 00:37:31:02 , I suggest we first start with| testing different kinds of 00:37:31:17 , 00:37:33:09 , fabrics, 00:37:33:29 , 00:37:35:04 , and yarns, 00:37:35:19 , 00:37:41:11 , in order to look after the results| and compare these results. 00:37:44:27 , 00:37:48:11 , For example here we have some| different kinds of wool, 00:37:48:15 , 00:37:51:20 , very rough wool for rugs| and 00:37:51:20 , 00:37:54:07 , very smooth wool, or| naturally colored wool, 00:37:54:27 , 00:37:58:08 , wool textile together with| elastic or elestane, 00:37:58:17 , 00:38:00:02 , maybe silk, 00:38:01:02 , 00:38:03:02 , maybe cotton, 00:38:03:14 , 00:38:04:09 , or, 00:38:04:26 , 00:38:08:13 , artificial cellulose which is| viscose, 00:38:08:26 , 00:38:10:15 , and linen -- okay that's 00:38:10:15 , 00:38:12:11 , all for the moment, and I suggest 00:38:13:05 , 00:38:15:15 , just to dip it in water in order to 00:38:15:28 , 00:38:18:29 , help the absorbance of the fabric. 00:38:26:11 , 00:38:28:00 , Now, remember, 00:38:28:03 , 00:38:31:02 , there is a kind of | sediment in this vat. 00:38:31:09 , 00:38:34:24 , So because of this sediment I don't| want to spoil my yarn, 00:38:35:13 , 00:38:37:22 , so I will use a kind of basket. 00:38:38:25 , 00:38:40:26 , This basket will be really useful 00:38:41:00 , 00:38:43:15 , because I just have to put | the yarn in, 00:38:43:19 , 00:38:46:01 , and then to dip the basket | in the vat, 00:38:46:06 , 00:38:49:06 , and taking care of not| touching the bottom, 00:38:49:28 , 00:38:52:02 , by using for example| that kind of stick 00:38:52:13 , 00:38:54:16 , in order not to| touch the bottom. 00:39:04:15 , 00:39:06:22 , Okay, let's go. 00:39:19:29 , 00:39:20:22 , Here we are. 00:39:21:04 , 00:39:24:19 , Now we can wait for about| 3 or 4 minutes. 00:39:25:18 , 00:39:28:13 , Now let's have a look on the results. 00:39:35:13 , 00:39:38:07 , The yarn can be pressed in order| to save 00:39:39:07 , 00:39:41:21 , some liquid, 00:39:43:04 , 00:39:45:08 , which is a precious liquid, 00:39:45:19 , 00:39:49:07 , and then I will immediately| put it in the water 00:39:50:03 , 00:39:52:23 , to rinse it and oxidize| at the same time 00:39:53:07 , 00:39:55:17 , and then we can see the results. 00:40:02:08 , 00:40:05:02 , We have to wait for it to| oxidize a little bit, 00:40:06:01 , 00:40:07:07 , and we will see. 00:40:08:26 , 00:40:10:07 , Okay. After rinsing, 00:40:10:21 , 00:40:12:28 , the pieces, we will compare| the results. 00:40:13:10 , 00:40:15:04 , This is linen. 00:40:15:08 , 00:40:17:19 , So I will put it close to| the white linen. 00:40:18:03 , 00:40:22:11 , This is viscose,| which is synthetic or artificial 00:40:25:25 , 00:40:27:10 , fiber. 00:40:27:27 , 00:40:30:23 , This is silk. 00:40:37:02 , 00:40:39:12 , This is the 00:40:40:19 , 00:40:42:11 , very rough 00:40:44:03 , 00:40:45:14 , wool, 00:40:46:11 , 00:40:47:20 , This one. 00:40:48:03 , 00:40:52:00 , And this is the very smooth one. 00:41:00:22 , 00:41:04:04 , And this is the already | colored one. 00:41:05:18 , 00:41:09:04 , So you might appreciate for example| the linen 00:41:09:14 , 00:41:11:17 , shade which is a very pure blue 00:41:11:28 , 00:41:17:11 , very different from viscose which| came a bit greenish, 00:41:17:26 , 00:41:21:26 , and even for wools for example| the two kinds of wool 00:41:22:18 , 00:41:24:04 , are very different because the| greasy wool 00:41:24:04 , 00:41:25:01 , is grayish 00:41:25:10 , 00:41:28:17 , but the very dry wool from the| desert 00:41:29:04 , 00:41:31:10 , takes really pure blue. 00:41:31:19 , 00:41:33:26 , So that's the first step| of the vat. 00:41:34:06 , 00:41:35:09 , I remember 00:41:35:16 , 00:41:39:19 , that I just started with this vat| around 50 degrees °C, 00:41:39:23 , 00:41:44:11 , but after a couple of days, it| will change enormously. 00:41:44:15 , 00:41:47:29 , So now I will show you the same| vat after 3 days. 00:41:48:15 , 00:41:50:10 , Then we can compare| the results. 00:41:51:09 , 00:41:57:09 , So now let's try with the same fibers| in the 3 day old vat. 00:42:01:23 , 00:42:04:15 , With the same method. 00:42:08:27 , 00:42:11:23 , Now let's wait a couple of | minutes. 00:42:13:12 , 00:42:15:10 , And look after the results. 00:42:21:19 , 00:42:23:03 , So now, let's 00:42:24:10 , 00:42:27:00 , look at the pieces and| let's rinse it. 00:42:27:27 , 00:42:30:24 , In order to oxidize carefully. 00:42:39:11 , 00:42:41:28 , Now let's have a look at| the results. 00:42:42:16 , 00:42:44:14 , This rough wool, 00:42:44:25 , 00:42:46:14 , gives that kind of shade, 00:42:47:03 , 00:42:48:02 , which is, 00:42:48:10 , 00:42:50:26 , much more attractive| than before. 00:42:51:27 , 00:42:53:24 , This silk, 00:42:54:25 , 00:42:56:10 , is just giving, 00:42:57:11 , 00:43:00:07 , a very saturate blue, 00:43:07:17 , 00:43:11:09 , this artificial cellulose, 00:43:12:10 , 00:43:13:24 , takes a lot 00:43:13:28 , 00:43:16:26 , really a lot -- it gives an| amazing shade 00:43:17:13 , 00:43:18:22 , very strong, 00:43:24:17 , 00:43:26:19 , even the linen will give 00:43:27:23 , 00:43:31:12 , attractive things. 00:43:43:02 , 00:43:45:24 , And the very greasy wool, 00:43:46:10 , 00:43:47:23 , is interesting, 00:43:48:13 , 00:43:49:23 , because now 00:43:49:23 , 00:43:51:28 , it gives quite a regular shade 00:43:52:12 , 00:43:53:25 , as well. 00:43:54:29 , 00:43:58:12 , And the brownish wool, 00:44:02:01 , 00:44:05:01 , is taking a little more,| but not so much. 00:44:05:13 , 00:44:06:05 , So, 00:44:06:16 , 00:44:09:13 , This is interesting because| you can remark that this 00:44:09:13 , 00:44:11:12 , wool which didn't take so much| at the beginning 00:44:12:00 , 00:44:13:17 , is taking much more now 00:44:14:01 , 00:44:16:12 , than the raw wool. 00:44:16:16 , 00:44:19:03 , Which was my favorite. 00:44:19:08 , 00:44:20:15 , And, 00:44:20:21 , 00:44:24:27 , About this material which was not| so beautiful than the 00:44:25:17 , 00:44:27:29 , linen for example, now 00:44:27:29 , 00:44:31:24 , it takes enormously for the very| nice shade 00:44:31:26 , 00:44:33:07 , because of the structure 00:44:34:00 , 00:44:35:07 , of the fabric. 00:44:35:20 , 00:44:39:01 , And not because of the| type of fiber. 00:44:39:09 , 00:44:41:00 , Because this is velvet. 00:44:41:23 , 00:44:43:22 , So velvet takes much more. 00:44:44:15 , 00:44:48:01 , It means that in the same dye vat, 00:44:48:08 , 00:44:50:18 , you will get a lot of different| things 00:44:50:29 , 00:44:52:15 , depending on the fiber, 00:44:52:29 , 00:44:54:04 , the type of fiber, 00:44:54:12 , 00:44:56:13 , the structure of the fiber, 00:44:56:13 , 00:45:00:13 , and some things like the pH of the vat 00:45:00:13 , 00:45:03:03 , we will discuss a little bit| afterwards. 00:45:09:07 , 00:45:14:04 , So, now, let's try another version| of this 1-2-3 vat. 00:45:14:29 , 00:45:18:12 , I will use as previously,| Indigo -- 00:45:18:12 , 00:45:20:00 , crushed with marbles, 00:45:20:17 , 00:45:22:27 , I will use the crushed 00:45:23:07 , 00:45:25:28 , lime from shellfish as previously 00:45:26:28 , 00:45:30:18 , but I will change the sugar| for Henna 00:45:31:06 , 00:45:33:15 , powdered from leaves, 00:45:33:23 , 00:45:38:03 , because Henna has some very nice| antioxidant in it 00:45:38:27 , 00:45:41:15 , so it is sold for healthcare 00:45:41:29 , 00:45:44:11 , and for dyeing hair, usually, 00:45:44:11 , 00:45:45:13 , but because of this 00:45:46:04 , 00:45:48:15 , strong| antioxidant effect 00:45:48:25 , 00:45:50:23 , it will be very good for the vat. 00:45:50:27 , 00:45:52:10 , So let's try now. 00:45:52:22 , 00:45:57:20 , First of all, I just put| hot water 00:46:04:11 , 00:46:05:14 , The second step, 00:46:05:28 , 00:46:09:18 , consists in adding the Henna powder, 00:46:09:29 , 00:46:12:20 , like this, 00:46:22:05 , 00:46:23:21 , then I will stir 00:46:23:23 , 00:46:26:12 , a little bit in order to hydrate this 00:46:26:22 , 00:46:28:09 , powder from leaves, 00:46:28:13 , 00:46:29:18 , okay, 00:46:29:24 , 00:46:30:28 , that's all. 00:46:32:09 , 00:46:33:16 , Then I will 00:46:33:24 , 00:46:35:10 , add the Indigo 00:46:39:03 , 00:46:41:00 , very very well crushed 00:46:44:10 , 00:46:47:16 , and of course I will| rinse my marbles 00:46:48:00 , 00:46:49:28 , in order not to waste. 00:46:59:29 , 00:47:03:04 , Then I will add the lime. 00:47:14:04 , 00:47:16:22 , I have to stir gently 00:47:17:21 , 00:47:20:08 , I may add some more hot water 00:47:20:19 , 00:47:25:13 , if I need a bigger amount| of liquid, 00:47:25:18 , 00:47:30:03 , and now I have to wait | for 15 minutes. 00:47:31:08 , 00:47:34:07 , Now, let's have a look| on this Henna vat. 00:47:34:23 , 00:47:37:18 , This is a 1-2-3 vat again, 00:47:37:26 , 00:47:42:06 , but at this moment I chose to prepare| a very concentrated vat 00:47:42:20 , 00:47:46:13 , So 1, which is Indigo,| is 30 Grams, 00:47:47:01 , 00:47:49:27 , 2, which is lime,| is 60 Grams, 00:47:50:04 , 00:47:53:14 , and 3, which is Henna,| is 90 Grams. 00:47:53:22 , 00:47:56:26 , So this is supposed to be | a rather concentrated vat 00:47:57:13 , 00:47:59:13 , if you are interested in| dark shades. 00:47:59:29 , 00:48:03:03 , So, after 15 minutes,| as you can see, 00:48:03:26 , 00:48:09:19 , the surface is interesting because it| is covered with this coppery coat, 00:48:09:25 , 00:48:11:20 , the bubbles are appearing, 00:48:12:05 , 00:48:17:00 , then I propose to test| one of this velvet 00:48:17:18 , 00:48:19:23 , viscose fabric 00:48:20:03 , 00:48:21:23 , by dipping it. 00:48:21:23 , 00:48:25:16 , So first, I will hydrate| a little bit the velvet, 00:48:27:00 , 00:48:27:23 , and then, 00:48:27:25 , 00:48:30:05 , I will use again that kind| of basket 00:48:30:10 , 00:48:33:18 , in order not to touch the| lime at the bottom. 00:48:42:28 , 00:48:44:16 , Okay, 00:48:45:03 , 00:48:46:13 , that's all. 00:48:47:15 , 00:48:49:02 , We just need 00:48:49:25 , 00:48:52:19 , maybe a couple of minutes| for this test 00:48:53:04 , 00:48:56:18 , but be sure if you are patient| enough to wait 00:48:56:28 , 00:48:59:16 , for the day after for| tomorrow, 00:48:59:29 , 00:49:04:13 , or maybe 2 or 3 days, this vat| will be really excellent. 00:49:05:26 , 00:49:08:18 , But let's wait a couple of minutes| before 00:49:09:03 , 00:49:11:17 , looking after this first test. 00:49:14:01 , 00:49:17:27 , Okay let's have a look| on this piece of fabric now. 00:49:23:16 , 00:49:25:16 , Okay, rinse it, 00:49:26:10 , 00:49:30:16 , in order to oxidize it a little bit, 00:49:31:23 , 00:49:34:17 , and then don't be surprised 00:49:34:28 , 00:49:37:24 , if it comes a little bit | greenish as you know it, 00:49:38:04 , 00:49:41:22 , this process needs an| oxidization. 00:49:42:07 , 00:49:43:23 , So it is still greenish, 00:49:44:00 , 00:49:47:10 , and after the same time| as the dipping time, 00:49:47:24 , 00:49:50:12 , it will be totally oxidized and 00:49:50:19 , 00:49:52:02 , a very nice blue will appear. 00:49:52:26 , 00:49:56:07 , As you may notice this vat is darker| than the previous 00:49:56:07 , 00:49:58:26 , because we put 30 Grams of Indigo | in it. 00:49:59:12 , 00:50:01:13 , It may be used as a kind of 'mother' | vat, 00:50:01:13 , 00:50:04:13 , using it as a concentrate| for diluting 00:50:04:24 , 00:50:06:23 , in a big pot if you prefer, 00:50:06:25 , 00:50:08:23 , or it can be saved 00:50:08:23 , 00:50:12:02 , like that for very very dark shades,| or, 00:50:12:12 , 00:50:14:23 , very well pressed fabric, 00:50:15:01 , 00:50:18:23 , as for example, Shibori,| Tie & Dye, Batik, all kinds 00:50:19:06 , 00:50:21:13 , you can press 00:50:22:04 , 00:50:24:18 , for a small volume 00:50:24:20 , 00:50:28:13 , and very useful for a very very| concentrated vat. 00:50:35:07 , 00:50:40:08 , Indigo dye, immersion dye,| is very attractive as you have seen. 00:50:41:04 , 00:50:42:28 , but with the Indigo vat, 00:50:43:05 , 00:50:45:23 , you can get a lot of other| possibilities. 00:50:46:14 , 00:50:48:19 , In my region in the past, 00:50:48:24 , 00:50:51:09 , Indigo was used 00:50:51:09 , 00:50:54:24 , with a resist paste| for that kind of pattern. 00:50:56:08 , 00:50:57:26 , With the vats we prepared, 00:50:58:08 , 00:51:00:01 , let's try something else. 00:51:00:06 , 00:51:03:17 , For example, I propose we| prepare some resist paste 00:51:03:26 , 00:51:05:07 , for that kind of effect 00:51:05:26 , 00:51:06:27 , you can see here, 00:51:06:29 , 00:51:10:19 , it means different shades of indigo| on the same piece of fabric. 00:51:11:13 , 00:51:12:09 , So, 00:51:12:16 , 00:51:14:06 , how it works. 00:51:14:14 , 00:51:16:05 , You just prepare this paste 00:51:16:16 , 00:51:20:05 , apply it on a piece of fabric, and| then dye it in the indigo vat. 00:51:20:18 , 00:51:23:09 , So you will get| clear pieces, 00:51:23:22 , 00:51:27:16 , and blue pieces| on the same piece. 00:51:27:18 , 00:51:31:07 , Then, redoing it you will get| different shades of indigo 00:51:31:09 , 00:51:33:04 , on the same piece, so it will 00:51:33:19 , 00:51:37:17 , give some attractive patterns| sometimes. 00:51:39:19 , 00:51:41:27 , Let's prepare the resist now. 00:51:42:02 , 00:51:44:26 , For making this specific resist, 00:51:45:10 , 00:51:47:20 , we need three things, so 00:51:48:00 , 00:51:50:14 , I will call it the| 'Resist 1-2-3!' 00:51:51:03 , 00:51:53:21 , 1 Part of Magnesium Salt, 00:51:53:21 , 00:51:58:21 , which gives a kind of chemical effect| avoiding the indigo to stick, 00:51:59:22 , 00:52:02:05 , 2 Parts of Arabic Gum, 00:52:02:16 , 00:52:06:23 , which is a physical resist,| which will avoid again 00:52:07:14 , 00:52:10:28 , the indigo to stick because| it is a kind of glue, 00:52:11:09 , 00:52:13:21 , and 3 Parts of clay which is 00:52:14:01 , 00:52:15:22 , a mechanical resist 00:52:15:27 , 00:52:18:27 , which is supposed to fill| up the coat, 00:52:19:22 , 00:52:21:17 , as a very compact coat, 00:52:21:27 , 00:52:25:13 , so all 3 will give a very| excellent effect. 00:52:25:20 , 00:52:28:20 , Let's prepare first the gum. 00:52:29:29 , 00:52:35:13 , Arabic Gum comes from a tropical tree, 00:52:36:19 , 00:52:40:03 , Let's put it in this very noisy | blender, 00:52:40:03 , 00:52:41:22 , and let's crush it first. 00:53:08:25 , 00:53:12:01 , Actually the gum| is crushed enough, 00:53:12:07 , 00:53:15:22 , and remember we need| 2 Parts. 00:53:17:00 , 00:53:20:14 , Now let's go on with this | special clay, 00:53:20:28 , 00:53:22:01 , I told you, 00:53:22:05 , 00:53:24:01 , this clay is ordinarily 00:53:24:12 , 00:53:29:00 , used for cleaning hair,| in the Arabic world in Maghreb, 00:53:29:15 , 00:53:32:11 , they use this clay as a| kind of soap. 00:53:32:14 , 00:53:34:00 , A very ecological soap, 00:53:34:10 , 00:53:36:08 , so this alkaline clay, 00:53:36:24 , 00:53:39:07 , which is a kind of detergent, 00:53:39:14 , 00:53:42:08 , will be very very useful| for the resist as well. 00:53:42:24 , 00:53:44:24 , So this clay will be crushed 00:53:45:20 , 00:53:46:28 , in a mortar. 00:53:55:24 , 00:53:58:26 , It takes a bit of time| but it will come. 00:54:05:26 , 00:54:08:18 , Okay. Now we are ready. 00:54:09:02 , 00:54:13:15 , The raw materials are ready,| and we have to mix it. 00:54:13:20 , 00:54:15:20 , Now listen to the recipe. 00:54:16:01 , 00:54:18:01 , This is very important. 00:54:18:21 , 00:54:23:11 , For example, for 100 milliliters| of water, I suggest 00:54:23:13 , 00:54:27:23 , 10 Grams of Magnesium Sulfate, 00:54:28:09 , 00:54:31:07 , 20 Grams of Arabic Gum, and 00:54:31:07 , 00:54:33:17 , 30 Grams of clay. 00:54:35:09 , 00:54:37:01 , Then here is my balance. 00:54:37:16 , 00:54:40:16 , I will first dissolve 00:54:44:21 , 00:54:47:04 , the magnesium in water, 00:55:00:10 , 00:55:03:00 , which is done very easily, 00:55:04:20 , 00:55:07:17 , then I wait a few minutes. 00:55:09:28 , 00:55:14:17 , In order to dissolve it quickly,| I will use a magnet. 00:55:16:26 , 00:55:20:28 , which is very efficient for| dissolving even the gum 00:55:20:28 , 00:55:26:07 , which takes quite a long time.| So 20 Grams of gum now. 00:55:38:22 , 00:55:41:28 , And I put it all together. 00:55:47:06 , 00:55:51:16 , And then I prepare 30 Grams of clay, 00:56:13:00 , 00:56:22:28 , I will add the clay when all of the gum is dissolved.|It will take from 5 to 10 minutes. 00:56:24:16 , 00:56:28:27 , After 10 minutes, the solution| is milky, 00:56:28:29 , 00:56:33:14 , and then this is ready for the | addition of the clay. 00:56:33:22 , 00:56:36:26 , In case you don't have all| of this fancy equipment, 00:56:37:06 , 00:56:39:17 , I suggest you use a mortar. 00:56:40:11 , 00:56:43:28 , Just put the liquid first, 00:56:51:19 , 00:56:54:21 , then add the clay, 00:56:59:00 , 00:57:01:27 , and just work it together, 00:57:02:14 , 00:57:06:09 , until it gives a very smooth paste. 00:57:07:09 , 00:57:13:02 , By including clay, the mixing| will take a few minutes more, 00:57:13:02 , 00:57:16:02 , and because the clay will| expand, 00:57:16:02 , 00:57:18:20 , gradually, and then 00:57:18:20 , 00:57:22:22 , the right point is when the paste| is regular and smooth. 00:57:24:08 , 00:57:27:27 , We are ready. We are supposed| to get a kind of syrup. 00:57:27:29 , 00:57:30:08 , This clay 00:57:30:15 , 00:57:34:10 , mixed together with the| gum and magnesium 00:57:34:12 , 00:57:36:04 , is applied with a simple brush 00:57:36:14 , 00:57:38:15 , like that for example, 00:57:39:10 , 00:57:42:23 , then I will design some little things| on it, 00:57:48:20 , 00:57:54:26 , and remember we are looking for| white designs on a blue background. 00:57:55:05 , 00:57:59:06 , So when dried,| this fabric will be 00:57:59:21 , 00:58:03:27 , dipped in the Indigo vat| we prepared this morning. 00:58:09:00 , 00:58:12:25 , Okay that's all -- let's just dry it. 00:58:13:02 , 00:58:15:03 , And we will finish it when dry. 00:58:17:08 , 00:58:20:12 , Okay now the resist is...about dry, 00:58:21:02 , 00:58:24:07 , so the fabric is ready to be dipped| in the Indigo vat. 00:58:24:13 , 00:58:28:14 , It will be done very easily. 00:58:43:18 , 00:58:45:11 , and for that kind of effect, 00:58:45:23 , 00:58:47:19 , 1 Minute is enough. 00:58:49:11 , 00:58:50:23 , Let's have a look. 00:58:50:29 , 00:58:54:29 , Okay we are ready for rinsing the| piece. 00:59:06:03 , 00:59:10:05 , So now let's wait a minute for| dissolving the gum, 00:59:10:18 , 00:59:12:20 , and we will see how it does. 00:59:13:26 , 00:59:16:11 , So now let's have a look on the| fabric. 00:59:20:20 , 00:59:23:08 , As you can see, the design| is appearing, 00:59:23:17 , 00:59:26:06 , as a pale design| on a blue background. 00:59:26:21 , 00:59:28:09 , I suggest now 00:59:28:18 , 00:59:31:19 , to redo the operation for two 00:59:32:01 , 00:59:35:15 , blue shades in the same piece| of fabric, so let's dry it again. 00:59:42:03 , 00:59:45:01 , Now my fabric is dried, so, 00:59:45:09 , 00:59:48:00 , I want to save some of these clear| parts, 00:59:48:14 , 00:59:52:15 , and then I will save some light| blue as well by 00:59:52:29 , 00:59:56:15 , applying this resist paste again.| So, 00:59:57:04 , 01:00:01:27 , by dipping it again, I will get | two shades of blue. 01:00:52:12 , 01:00:54:20 , And now, I will save some 01:00:55:14 , 01:00:56:25 , small 01:00:57:18 , 01:01:02:01 , amounts of blue by just designing| some others 01:01:02:15 , 01:01:05:26 , little ones like this, for example, 01:01:08:05 , 01:01:11:06 , All of that will be saved as | a pale blue 01:01:11:14 , 01:01:14:29 , on a dark background.| So, 01:01:15:10 , 01:01:19:16 , I will finish it rather quickly 01:01:52:10 , 01:01:54:07 , It takes a few minutes, but| remember, 01:01:54:27 , 01:01:57:15 , you have to dry it again before 01:01:57:23 , 01:02:00:20 , dipping it in the Indigo vat. 01:02:05:16 , 01:02:06:17 , This paste 01:02:06:24 , 01:02:10:11 , will be preserved quite well| during several days 01:02:10:16 , 01:02:13:16 , because it will not rot| or decompose very soon. 01:02:16:12 , 01:02:19:01 , Okay, I am nearly finished now, 01:02:22:11 , 01:02:26:11 , and remember -- the second dip| will give a darker color. 01:02:26:14 , 01:02:28:15 , Except on the white. 01:02:31:12 , 01:02:33:22 , Okay -- that's all. 01:02:38:20 , 01:02:43:20 , So now, let's try the fabric again,| before dipping it in the Indigo. 01:02:46:27 , 01:02:49:00 , So now the fabric is dried, 01:02:49:08 , 01:02:54:09 , so I will dip it again in the| Indigo vat for a second time. 01:03:07:04 , 01:03:11:16 , And as usual, we will wait a couple| of minutes, maybe 3... 01:03:11:29 , 01:03:15:26 , ...to 4 minutes, depending on| the quality of your gum, 01:03:16:10 , 01:03:19:01 , and of your preparation,| but it will stay 01:03:19:12 , 01:03:22:14 , between 2 to 4 minutes --| that's the best. 01:03:23:08 , 01:03:26:13 , So at that moment,| we will rinse it again. 01:03:28:08 , 01:03:33:08 , Okay, let's look after the fabric now,| and see how it does. 01:03:43:18 , 01:03:47:26 , And then, we will rinse it carefully| to remove the gum and the clay. 01:03:49:02 , 01:03:50:10 , So it will take, maybe, 01:03:50:25 , 01:03:54:06 , a couple of minutes in this water. 01:03:57:10 , 01:04:00:26 , So let's have a look on| this fabric now. 01:04:05:15 , 01:04:08:15 , Now we have got two | different shades, 01:04:08:20 , 01:04:11:18 , one pale indigo, 01:04:12:01 , 01:04:17:15 , and one dark indigo,| all together with 01:04:17:25 , 01:04:21:05 , clear designs. 01:04:21:19 , 01:04:24:06 , So, at that moment,| you can repeat 01:04:24:11 , 01:04:25:21 , the operation, 01:04:25:29 , 01:04:31:14 , by drying again, adding some resist| again, and dyeing again. 01:04:31:26 , 01:04:35:02 , 3 or 4 times, depending on| your project. 01:04:35:07 , 01:04:36:06 , As you have seen, 01:04:36:12 , 01:04:38:25 , the magnesium salt is avoiding 01:04:39:18 , 01:04:41:23 , the indigo to stick on the fabric. 01:04:42:08 , 01:04:44:22 , but in case you want to add some 01:04:44:26 , 01:04:47:02 , different shades together with| the indigo, 01:04:47:08 , 01:04:50:04 , as red shades, or yellow shades, 01:04:50:09 , 01:04:52:25 , then you will use other| metallic salts 01:04:53:05 , 01:04:54:29 , which are called 'Mordants'. 01:04:55:05 , 01:04:57:17 , These will be developed afterwards. DISC 2 (BEGINS AT 01:05:06) // STL (Spruce Text List). Created by Subtitle Xtractor V 0.2.0, © 2011 macuser / Saturday, August 13, 2011 , 11:25:49 PM 00:00:01:16 , 00:00:17:08 , ♪ Theme Music ♪ 00:00:26:12 , 00:00:30:13 , Now this fabric is dry,| and as you may notice, 00:00:31:03 , 00:00:35:01 , the blue dye is fixed on| the background of the fabric 00:00:35:18 , 00:00:41:19 , except in those places where we added| magnesium salt in the resists. 00:00:42:15 , 00:00:45:27 , So, this is considered| a substantive dye, which is 00:00:46:10 , 00:00:50:08 , naturally dyed when dipped| in the vat. 00:00:50:18 , 00:00:54:04 , But for most of the other colors,| we will need 00:00:54:20 , 00:00:58:08 , some ingredients in order to fix it| on the fabric. 00:00:58:13 , 00:01:01:23 , otherwise, the dye will| not fix at all. 00:01:02:00 , 00:01:05:01 , So, the mordants are| metallic salts, 00:01:05:21 , 00:01:07:09 , we will prepare some today. 00:01:07:20 , 00:01:12:11 , and you will notice that the effect of| the mordant is doubled; 00:01:12:24 , 00:01:17:11 , The mordant will increase the color,| and it will fix it as well. 00:01:22:18 , 00:01:24:15 , There are different kinds of mordants. 00:01:25:00 , 00:01:26:24 , It depends on the fiber you use. 00:01:27:06 , 00:01:31:02 , I will present for use some mordants| for cotton. 00:01:31:17 , 00:01:36:20 , The best mordants for dark shades is| made with ferrous components. 00:01:37:05 , 00:01:41:04 , Originally, people were extracting| this pyrite 00:01:41:22 , 00:01:46:25 , which is a ferrous sulfur, and by| natural oxidization, 00:01:47:13 , 00:01:52:26 , they did transform it into a| ferrous salt called 00:01:53:08 , 00:01:54:14 , 'Ferrous Sulfate' 00:01:55:07 , 00:01:57:13 , So, this Ferrous Sulfate 00:01:57:27 , 00:02:00:14 , is the raw material| for the ferrous mordant. 00:02:01:04 , 00:02:07:13 , We will also need vinegar in order to| dissolve it correctly, 00:02:07:25 , 00:02:10:16 , and we will add some lime or calcium| hydroxide as well, 00:02:10:23 , 00:02:13:11 , to increase the efficiency| of this mordant. 00:02:13:25 , 00:02:15:17 , So, mixing together, 00:02:16:00 , 00:02:20:28 , Vinegar, lime and ferrous sulfate,| we will make a ferrous acetate. 00:02:21:11 , 00:02:25:14 , I will show you a sample which is| done with that kind of mordant. 00:02:25:26 , 00:02:31:20 , We printed here some dilutions| of ferrous acetate, 00:02:32:01 , 00:02:38:03 , and by dipping the piece in a| Gall Nut dye bath, 00:02:38:26 , 00:02:42:18 , We achieved different shades| of grays, 00:02:43:01 , 00:02:46:07 , but please notice as well, 00:02:46:25 , 00:02:48:29 , the background is still pale. 00:02:49:21 , 00:02:54:13 , The color doesn't stick on the fabric| where there is no mordent 00:02:54:25 , 00:02:59:29 , It will just stick differently based| on the concentrations of the mordant. 00:03:00:14 , 00:03:02:02 , Let us prepare the mordant. 00:03:02:16 , 00:03:05:18 , First, just prepare 00:03:05:24 , 00:03:09:19 , 200 milliliters of white vinegar 00:03:10:04 , 00:03:15:10 , then add 10 grams of ferrous sulfate, 00:03:29:02 , 00:03:36:09 , and then, 5 grams of lime. 00:03:49:04 , 00:03:50:11 , That's all -- 00:03:50:17 , 00:03:53:19 , we just have to wait a few| minutes 00:03:54:01 , 00:03:56:09 , before preparing it. 00:03:57:18 , 00:04:01:28 , I must mention: do not cook the| vinegar -- this is a cold process. 00:04:02:18 , 00:04:04:06 , So now this is the 00:04:04:24 , 00:04:09:28 , concentrated mordant for that kind| of dark shade you can see on top. 00:04:10:26 , 00:04:16:02 , And I will dilute it in order to get| some pale shades. 00:04:16:26 , 00:04:18:07 , So that is very simple: 00:04:18:23 , 00:04:19:28 , I will use 00:04:20:13 , 00:04:22:02 , about 00:04:22:02 , 00:04:24:18 , one half of my preparation 00:04:25:17 , 00:04:29:28 , then I add some more| vinegar to it until 00:04:30:11 , 00:04:33:07 , I have got a total of| 200 milliliters. 00:04:33:25 , 00:04:35:25 , So that is our| second mordant. 00:04:36:04 , 00:04:38:11 , Now let us prepare the| third mordant. 00:04:38:24 , 00:04:41:13 , Very simple -- I just dilute it 00:04:41:25 , 00:04:43:11 , by half, 00:04:47:12 , 00:04:49:26 , and add some more vinegar again, 00:04:50:07 , 00:04:54:25 , so it is very simple but you must take| care of being 00:04:55:10 , 00:04:59:07 , precise if you want to redo| exactly the same shade. 00:04:59:27 , 00:05:03:03 , So, I dilute again, 00:05:11:28 , 00:05:17:00 , Totally I have got four| mordants and then the last one 00:05:42:11 , 00:05:45:14 , Now, these five mordants are still not| ready; 00:05:46:07 , 00:05:50:10 , we will add some gum in order to| better fix it to the fabric. 00:05:51:07 , 00:05:55:05 , So I will use this gum which is| 'guar gum'. 00:05:55:27 , 00:05:59:24 , We will use it in order to thicken| a little bit the mordants, 00:06:00:15 , 00:06:05:04 , And then it must be a kind| of syrup, 00:06:05:24 , 00:06:10:27 , For making nice patterns with| brushes or blocks. 00:06:11:11 , 00:06:12:23 , Block Printing. 00:06:13:16 , 00:06:16:01 , 1% of the guar gum| is enough. 00:06:16:22 , 00:06:19:04 , Let us prepare| the guar. 00:07:21:28 , 00:07:25:13 , That's all -- we just have to| dilute it carefully 00:07:25:29 , 00:07:28:24 , and it's ready to print. 00:07:30:16 , 00:07:35:06 , Now the gum is about diluted,| then the mordants are ready. 00:07:35:24 , 00:07:40:00 , In order to get| these shades, 00:07:40:16 , 00:07:43:27 , I will use the same plant I used| for this sample 00:07:44:17 , 00:07:46:24 , this is Gall Nut. 00:07:47:07 , 00:07:49:16 , These Gall Nuts grow| on oaks, 00:07:50:04 , 00:07:51:15 , Mediterranean Oaks, 00:07:52:00 , 00:07:55:16 , then I crushed it in the blender| I showed you before, 00:07:55:23 , 00:07:59:24 , and this powder will be diluted| in warm water, 00:08:00:07 , 00:08:01:25 , and that's the dye bath. 00:08:02:10 , 00:08:06:05 , but first, let's design with the| mordants on a piece of fabric. 00:08:07:17 , 00:08:09:05 , Now let me emphasize 00:08:09:21 , 00:08:14:07 , use the same brush for the same| pot, don't mix it with 00:08:14:20 , 00:08:15:22 , different pots 00:08:16:03 , 00:08:16:25 , if you do, 00:08:17:07 , 00:08:21:11 , you will mix everything and you will| not get the right effect 00:08:21:23 , 00:08:24:06 , so let's design. 00:09:14:15 , 00:09:17:02 , Okay, the pale one... 00:09:40:18 , 00:09:43:14 , ...let's try this one now... 00:10:12:04 , 00:10:13:22 , ...the last one... 00:10:30:20 , 00:10:34:18 , as you may notice,| I put a piece of paper 00:10:34:18 , 00:10:37:17 , underneath my textile, 00:10:37:17 , 00:10:41:17 , because this mordant is very| contaminating. 00:10:41:17 , 00:10:45:12 , In order not to spoil the table| I am covering it with paper. 00:11:05:09 , 00:11:08:17 , Okay now we have finished the piece,| so, 00:11:09:08 , 00:11:14:21 , let's wait a few minutes for it to dry| before the dye treatment. 00:11:16:14 , 00:11:18:06 , Now the fabric is dry: 00:11:18:25 , 00:11:22:11 , I can verify it by| simply smelling it. 00:11:22:24 , 00:11:25:18 , It must not smell of vinegar| any more. 00:11:26:01 , 00:11:27:17 , Then, that is the right time. 00:11:28:01 , 00:11:32:24 , In order to fix the mordant and| get very attractive shades, 00:11:33:04 , 00:11:36:03 , I will use a very special| preparation 00:11:36:15 , 00:11:39:24 , consisting of wheat bran| in warm water. 00:11:40:04 , 00:11:44:19 , Wheat bran is a very interesting| natural matter because it has 00:11:45:00 , 00:11:47:27 , a very high content of| natural phosphates. 00:11:48:09 , 00:11:52:09 , So I just put some wheat bran| in water -- like this, 00:11:52:25 , 00:11:55:06 , warm water is suitable, 00:11:55:16 , 00:11:58:08 , and then I just dip my fabric 00:11:58:18 , 00:12:00:28 , for a few seconds,| and that's all. 00:12:03:13 , 00:12:08:16 , Next -- let's prepare the dye bath. 00:12:11:14 , 00:12:13:14 , Hot water.. 00:12:18:01 , 00:12:21:27 , ...some powdered Gall Nut, 00:12:26:00 , 00:12:28:15 , I stir a little bit --| and that's all. 00:12:29:23 , 00:12:33:23 , The design is now fixed in the| wheat bran, so 00:12:34:08 , 00:12:37:28 , I just have to rinse it a little bit 00:12:45:08 , 00:12:49:01 , The ferrous mordant is totally| oxidized; 00:12:49:09 , 00:12:52:21 , You can see it because it is a| pale color now. 00:12:52:28 , 00:12:56:10 , It is no longer orange like before.| And then... 00:12:56:14 , 00:12:59:13 , I finish it in my dye bath. 00:13:00:23 , 00:13:03:07 , And suddenly... 00:13:04:18 , 00:13:08:01 , the different shades of grays| are appearing now. 00:13:09:00 , 00:13:11:02 , So we just have to wait 00:13:11:17 , 00:13:14:05 , a moment -- rinse it,| and that's all. 00:13:16:10 , 00:13:20:13 , Now the fabric is dried, so you can| see what kind of effect it gives. 00:13:21:12 , 00:13:24:20 , The following point is about| printing: 00:13:25:20 , 00:13:29:25 , we can use brushes, but we can| use any kind of thing 00:13:30:10 , 00:13:34:10 , for example these small| cake molds, 00:13:34:17 , 00:13:39:11 , I just apply the mordant and I can| print various forms. 00:13:39:23 , 00:13:43:28 , But I suggest you can make your| own blocks 00:13:44:09 , 00:13:46:04 , with very simple materials. 00:13:46:14 , 00:13:50:19 , I suggest to use velvet| adhesive backing 00:13:51:06 , 00:13:54:23 , and some polystyrene,| in order to cut 00:13:55:09 , 00:13:57:20 , easily the form that you| want. 00:13:58:07 , 00:13:59:03 , The first step 00:13:59:12 , 00:14:02:11 , we will just stick the| adhesive 00:14:03:10 , 00:14:05:27 , on the polystyrene... 00:14:24:06 , 00:14:25:27 , And second step 00:14:27:08 , 00:14:28:28 , I have to cut 00:14:29:25 , 00:14:31:12 , the shape I want. 00:14:41:27 , 00:14:47:00 , For example, some small squares| for this demonstration. 00:14:47:29 , 00:14:49:10 , Okay... 00:15:00:07 , 00:15:01:24 , ...my first little block. 00:15:05:06 , 00:15:07:05 , Second... 00:15:10:27 , 00:15:12:02 , Third.. 00:15:16:16 , 00:15:18:16 , Fourth.. 00:15:20:05 , 00:15:23:26 , and the smallest one for the| very pale shade. 00:15:24:14 , 00:15:29:00 , so for these blocks we can use the| mordant again by just printing it 00:15:29:11 , 00:15:30:20 , I will show you how. 00:15:31:21 , 00:15:35:00 , Now let's try the mordants with the| new blocks 00:15:35:20 , 00:15:37:08 , First of all,| my heart... 00:15:39:04 , 00:15:42:12 , I just put the liquid on it| like that -- very simple, 00:15:44:19 , 00:15:46:03 , and then I print it. 00:15:48:26 , 00:15:50:08 , -- that's all. 00:15:51:17 , 00:15:55:08 , For this polystyrene block| it is not very different. 00:15:56:05 , 00:15:58:20 , just cover the polystyrene 00:15:59:04 , 00:16:02:13 , -- the first time may be difficult| but when it is wet it is better. 00:16:03:14 , 00:16:05:10 , okay -- like that... 00:16:11:00 , 00:16:11:24 , okay... 00:16:12:14 , 00:16:16:16 , then I can even cover my piece with| different 00:16:17:15 , 00:16:19:02 , blocks now... 00:16:23:16 , 00:16:25:02 , okay -- second block 00:16:27:13 , 00:16:31:21 , If you are patient, dry it| and then you can overlap 00:16:32:14 , 00:16:34:27 , different mordants for| different shades. 00:16:37:15 , 00:16:39:26 , okay...maybe this one.. 00:16:43:04 , 00:16:43:24 , and remember, 00:16:44:13 , 00:16:46:09 , each block is dedicated to 00:16:46:25 , 00:16:47:25 , a specific mordant 00:16:48:09 , 00:16:50:23 , don't use the same block| for different mordants 00:16:51:14 , 00:16:53:15 , if you do, you will| mix everything up 00:16:54:13 , 00:16:56:14 , -- it will be a kind of| disaster. 00:17:03:13 , 00:17:04:16 , Now you know 00:17:05:06 , 00:17:10:22 , when finished, dry very well| until it no longer smells of vinegar 00:17:11:10 , 00:17:16:17 , put it in a wheat bran solution,| rinse, and dye it -- that's all. 00:17:24:03 , 00:17:28:29 , This fabric is dry now.| As you can see this ferrous mordant 00:17:29:15 , 00:17:32:11 , will offer us a lot of| different grays 00:17:32:25 , 00:17:34:27 , different shades, as this| very dark 00:17:35:27 , 00:17:37:04 , or this very pale 00:17:37:20 , 00:17:41:22 , so it may be very attractive to play| with dilutions 00:17:42:04 , 00:17:44:26 , for putting this under| control. 00:17:45:13 , 00:17:48:06 , The other very interesting| point 00:17:48:21 , 00:17:51:06 , is about brilliant colors. 00:17:52:26 , 00:17:56:20 , For brilliant colors I will prepare| another mordant. 00:18:00:24 , 00:18:04:06 , In the past, this ferrous mordant| was called 00:18:04:21 , 00:18:05:28 , 'dark mordant'. 00:18:06:11 , 00:18:08:10 , And now the| 'light mordant' 00:18:08:26 , 00:18:10:12 , is an aluminium mordant. 00:18:11:24 , 00:18:15:03 , This rock is 'alum'. 00:18:15:23 , 00:18:19:22 , One source of the alum we use| is natural rock, 00:18:20:05 , 00:18:23:23 , but most of the alum we get from| trade 00:18:24:08 , 00:18:28:16 , is made from bauxite| which is aluminium rocks 00:18:29:05 , 00:18:33:21 , so this alum can be crushed and used| as a raw material for making 00:18:34:00 , 00:18:36:11 , a specific mordant| for cotton. 00:18:36:29 , 00:18:39:26 , remember --| for the ferrous mordant, 00:18:40:08 , 00:18:43:09 , we just mix together,| vinegar, 00:18:43:23 , 00:18:46:09 , lime,| and ferrous sulfate. 00:18:46:23 , 00:18:51:17 , Now we will mix| vinegar, lime, and 00:18:52:13 , 00:18:54:26 , aluminium sulfate which is| 'alum'. 00:18:55:25 , 00:18:57:15 , So let's do it! 00:18:57:28 , 00:19:01:08 , For 100 milliliters of| vinegar, 00:19:02:11 , 00:19:03:20 , well -- I will prepare| a little bit more. 00:19:04:09 , 00:19:09:07 , For 200 milliliters of vinegar,| I will need about 00:19:09:21 , 00:19:12:09 , 40 grams of alum. 00:19:30:20 , 00:19:32:18 , Okay...about... 00:19:35:00 , 00:19:39:02 , The the first step consists in| dissolving carefully this alum 00:19:39:12 , 00:19:43:24 , so we will use my| little machine, 00:19:46:12 , 00:19:50:05 , now the alum is dissolved| then I have to add the lime. 00:19:50:28 , 00:19:56:04 , Because we put 40 grams of alum| for 200 milliliters of vinegar, 00:19:56:17 , 00:20:01:11 , I will put half as much lime,| or 20 grams. 00:20:30:16 , 00:20:33:18 , Let's wait a little while for it| to be dissolved. 00:20:34:01 , 00:20:36:17 , This is a very concentrated| preparation 00:20:37:03 , 00:20:40:22 , so for most of| the situations 00:20:41:02 , 00:20:42:16 , we have to dilute it. 00:20:43:05 , 00:20:48:22 , It is easy to dilute it because| you add some vinegar and that's all. 00:20:50:12 , 00:20:54:13 , If you want to dilute your mordant,| just add vinegar. 00:20:55:04 , 00:20:59:03 , At that moment I prefer to dilute it,| so I did put a big amount. 00:20:59:20 , 00:21:04:13 , I did put my 200 ml of| concentrated mordant 00:21:05:17 , 00:21:09:03 , together with 200 ml| of vinegar and that's all. 00:21:09:08 , 00:21:16:15 , Now we will add the gum in order| to get a syrupy consistency. 00:21:16:15 , 00:21:20:10 , Because we will have| 400 ml, 00:21:20:17 , 00:21:23:20 , I need 1% or| 4 grams of gum. 00:21:35:29 , 00:21:38:28 , This may take some time, 00:21:39:25 , 00:21:41:20 , but it is a very important point 00:21:42:07 , 00:21:48:18 , because you must avoid all| lumps or particles in it. 00:21:51:07 , 00:21:53:06 , Now the mordant is ready. 00:21:54:05 , 00:21:56:08 , I will use it as previously, 00:21:57:00 , 00:21:58:17 , on this piece of cotton, 00:22:01:02 , 00:22:03:13 , I can use either a brush, 00:22:03:17 , 00:22:06:14 , or a block, 00:22:06:21 , 00:22:09:18 , this kind of polystyrene block| I showed you previously, 00:22:10:02 , 00:22:13:04 , so I will prefer to use the| block now, 00:22:13:25 , 00:22:19:08 , to discover what kind of color| we can get from this mordant. 00:22:25:17 , 00:22:30:12 , You may be surprised to notice| that this mordant is colorless; 00:22:31:07 , 00:22:36:02 , If you print it,| you will not see very much. 00:22:39:24 , 00:22:43:13 , When dried, this| colorless piece 00:22:45:06 , 00:22:49:25 , will bring a big surprise because| depending on the plant you dip 00:22:50:03 , 00:22:52:03 , the fabric on, 00:22:52:10 , 00:22:54:16 , it will give sometimes red,| sometimes yellow, 00:22:54:23 , 00:22:59:03 , that's the mordant for colors --| any kind except indigo. 00:23:04:29 , 00:23:08:25 , Okay, so I prepared a| couple of pieces, so, 00:23:09:04 , 00:23:11:22 , We will work with| several plants now. 00:23:13:23 , 00:23:16:26 , Let's finish the samples first. 00:23:20:07 , 00:23:21:03 , Okay.. 00:23:26:05 , 00:23:27:14 , as you know already 00:23:28:11 , 00:23:30:27 , we have to dry this piece, 00:23:31:13 , 00:23:36:24 , we have to fix the mordant in a wheat| bran bath as before with 00:23:36:25 , 00:23:39:15 , ferrous mordant --| it is exactly the same process. 00:23:39:28 , 00:23:45:04 , And then we will just have to dip it| in a dye bath 00:23:45:24 , 00:23:47:14 , to get the color in. 00:23:48:18 , 00:23:50:18 , okay -- I just finish. 00:24:06:14 , 00:24:08:15 , Now,| let's dry the piece. 00:24:14:08 , 00:24:16:05 , This fabric is now dry, 00:24:16:12 , 00:24:19:22 , and you will see the mordant| is not very visible, 00:24:20:06 , 00:24:22:06 , but anyway -- it has to be| fixed. 00:24:23:03 , 00:24:24:12 , as previously, 00:24:24:22 , 00:24:26:26 , with the wheat bran.| So this 00:24:27:26 , 00:24:30:28 , infusion of wheat bran is| very very efficient, 00:24:31:10 , 00:24:34:01 , I'll fix my mordant first, 00:24:37:07 , 00:24:38:13 , Okay, 00:24:39:17 , 00:24:43:12 , then I will rinse, 00:24:45:28 , 00:24:49:02 , the textile,| and then I am ready 00:24:49:13 , 00:24:51:12 , to prepare the dye pot. 00:24:51:19 , 00:24:55:01 , As an experiment I suggest| we try 00:24:55:07 , 00:24:59:05 , a very common plant we grow in| our gardens, which is 00:24:59:25 , 00:25:01:01 , artichoke. 00:25:01:05 , 00:25:04:21 , This artichoke plant is very famous 00:25:05:06 , 00:25:09:03 , in Provence for very bright yellows| we can get from the leaves 00:25:09:11 , 00:25:11:10 , so I will prepare 00:25:11:23 , 00:25:18:01 , an infusion from these leaves to see| how it does with this mordant. 00:25:18:11 , 00:25:21:08 , First I will cut it in| small pieces. 00:25:32:08 , 00:25:37:10 , I add some hot water, 00:25:43:25 , 00:25:47:14 , then I will cook it for| a short while, 00:25:47:24 , 00:25:51:02 , until I get a pale| yellowish juice. 00:25:51:29 , 00:25:56:12 , it is starting, but I suggest| we wait a few more minutes, 00:25:56:17 , 00:25:59:01 , for it to be a little bit|more intense. 00:26:00:17 , 00:26:04:05 , Now, let's try and dye| this piece. 00:26:12:23 , 00:26:15:03 , this mordant will 00:26:15:15 , 00:26:18:03 , attract the color| to the fiber 00:26:18:16 , 00:26:23:02 , which will be localized just| at the point where the mordant is. 00:26:24:01 , 00:26:30:13 , We should wait longer, but let me| show you the immediate results now. 00:26:30:24 , 00:26:35:03 , As a pale yellow, locally,| do you see? 00:26:35:22 , 00:26:42:14 , I want to increase the shade so I will| wait a couple of minutes more 00:26:43:23 , 00:26:47:22 , and you will get| yellow designs on a white background. 00:26:49:15 , 00:26:51:16 , So let's finish this. 00:26:51:21 , 00:26:54:03 , And let's have a discussion. 00:26:54:08 , 00:26:57:06 , As you have seen the ferrous mordant 00:26:57:06 , 00:27:01:07 , gives quite dark shades, as even| grays and blacks. 00:27:02:09 , 00:27:04:22 , The alum mordant will give| a very light 00:27:05:16 , 00:27:07:29 , and interesting shade with 00:27:09:06 , 00:27:10:22 , any dye plant. 00:27:10:22 , 00:27:15:15 , So what happens if we just put| all together 00:27:15:15 , 00:27:19:04 , ferrous mordant and| alum mordant in the same piece? 00:27:20:03 , 00:27:22:09 , Let's finish this and we will see. 00:27:24:10 , 00:27:26:14 , Okay the pot is boiling, 00:27:26:20 , 00:27:31:09 , let's rinse the fabric and see| how it does. 00:27:41:07 , 00:27:43:06 , Here is the result. 00:27:43:11 , 00:27:45:17 , As you can see, the mordant 00:27:45:28 , 00:27:48:20 , kept the color but the background| didn't keep the color. 00:27:49:11 , 00:27:54:22 , So for cellulosic fibers such| as cotton or linen, or hemp, 00:27:55:04 , 00:27:58:29 , Mordant is required for very saturated| colors because if not, 00:27:59:12 , 00:28:01:07 , you will not fix it. 00:28:01:18 , 00:28:04:13 , Okay in order to clean the| background, 00:28:04:22 , 00:28:08:10 , the very simple way is to use| ordinary dish 00:28:09:13 , 00:28:11:00 , soap, 00:28:17:08 , 00:28:19:15 , and you will see afterwards, 00:28:20:00 , 00:28:23:15 , with some plants it is not so easy| to clean the background, 00:28:23:19 , 00:28:27:03 , so cleaning the background,| of some printed textiles 00:28:27:10 , 00:28:29:28 , is sometimes a little bit difficult. 00:28:29:28 , 00:28:31:22 , This point will be developed| afterwards. 00:28:51:26 , 00:28:56:03 , Now let's see what happens if I put| all together 00:28:56:17 , 00:29:00:18 , ferrous mordant and alum mordant| in the same piece of fabric 00:29:02:12 , 00:29:04:21 , I dyed afterwards in this pot. 00:29:05:26 , 00:29:07:17 , Okay let's prepare the stuff. 00:29:08:17 , 00:29:10:17 , This is the alum mordant. 00:29:10:17 , 00:29:14:08 , As you have seen it gives a yellow| shade with the artichoke leaves. 00:29:15:05 , 00:29:18:16 , Our ferrous mordants we| experimented with before 00:29:18:24 , 00:29:20:04 , will give the same plant 00:29:20:13 , 00:29:24:19 , some unsaturated grays| or brownish grays 00:29:25:05 , 00:29:28:10 , but what happens if I mix it| together? 00:29:29:08 , 00:29:30:18 , Let me show you 00:29:30:18 , 00:29:33:23 , how to prepare specific mordants| for 00:29:34:16 , 00:29:38:00 , various shades with the| same plant. 00:29:38:28 , 00:29:41:27 , So half of this one, 00:29:45:22 , 00:29:48:07 , will be put in each beaker. 00:30:04:16 , 00:30:05:10 , and now, 00:30:06:00 , 00:30:07:07 , I suggest, 00:30:07:25 , 00:30:11:01 , we experiment with a mix of the| very strong 00:30:11:02 , 00:30:15:02 , ferrous mordant together with| the alum mordant 00:30:16:19 , 00:30:20:08 , so half of each for example, 00:30:23:29 , 00:30:25:06 , the second one, 00:30:26:09 , 00:30:28:27 , exactly the same proportion... 00:30:32:22 , 00:30:36:03 , and the third one...| exactly the same, 00:30:42:29 , 00:30:45:02 , and the fourth one. 00:30:48:16 , 00:30:52:17 , And I will stop there, because| the very pale one 00:30:52:28 , 00:30:57:14 , will perhaps not show very much| difference by mixing the mordants. 00:30:57:25 , 00:31:01:08 , So I will end up with about| 10 mordants. 00:31:01:15 , 00:31:06:00 , I must stir it gently in order to| mix it carefully, 00:31:06:06 , 00:31:09:26 , and then we are ready to test it on| a piece of fabric. 00:31:35:10 , 00:31:38:27 , Now I will look after a piece of| fabric and prepare 00:31:38:27 , 00:31:41:24 , some small blocks in order| to print all these mordants 00:31:41:25 , 00:31:44:12 , together on a piece of fabric. 00:31:46:02 , 00:31:49:28 , This small sample can be done 00:31:50:20 , 00:31:57:06 , frequently, whenever you wish to test| a new coloring matter. 00:31:57:28 , 00:32:00:14 , For example, you are just 00:32:00:19 , 00:32:06:01 , receiving some plants from France or| you are cultivating some and wondering 00:32:07:09 , 00:32:08:21 , what exactly [the resulting color]| is, 00:32:09:06 , 00:32:12:03 , so you take one of these 00:32:13:05 , 00:32:16:05 , small pieces of fabric with all the| mordants on it 00:32:16:15 , 00:32:18:24 , and you just have to dye it, 00:32:18:24 , 00:32:22:18 , and you will get a lot of information| about your dye stuff at once; 00:32:22:25 , 00:32:26:20 , in this case today,| about ten different shades. 00:32:26:25 , 00:32:30:01 , But in case you don't like, exactly, 00:32:30:20 , 00:32:32:15 , this shade or that one, 00:32:32:21 , 00:32:38:05 , you can do a mix, to approach| exactly the one you are looking for. 00:32:40:16 , 00:32:43:18 , So this was the very| traditional manner 00:32:44:04 , 00:32:48:28 , to keep the process under control| in the old manufacturing place. 00:33:01:13 , 00:33:04:28 , Okay -- we printed the mordants| for mixed colors, 00:33:05:28 , 00:33:08:20 , and now I will print, 00:33:08:26 , 00:33:13:05 , the pale ferrous mordant,| and so on. 00:33:42:18 , 00:33:45:13 , And now you know perfectly| the following step, 00:33:46:01 , 00:33:48:02 , which is drying the piece, 00:33:49:16 , 00:33:53:03 , or putting it in a wheat bran solution 00:33:55:10 , 00:33:57:02 , and dyeing. 00:34:51:22 , 00:34:56:03 , This is done. Now we have to wait| for it to dry, 00:34:56:03 , 00:34:59:13 , then I will put it in the| wheat bran solution again, 00:34:59:22 , 00:35:01:29 , we will rinse it, and, 00:35:02:04 , 00:35:05:09 , dye it in the artichoke pot. 00:35:08:09 , 00:35:11:08 , Now, the piece which has been 00:35:11:13 , 00:35:13:28 , printed with the tannin mordants 00:35:14:25 , 00:35:19:03 , is dried, is treated with the wheat| bran -- I just rinse it, 00:35:19:08 , 00:35:21:15 , we will see what it will give 00:35:22:04 , 00:35:25:02 , in our artichoke pot. 00:35:27:23 , 00:35:32:05 , It should take between| 1/2 hour and 1 hour. 00:35:32:29 , 00:35:34:18 , but for this experiment, 00:35:34:26 , 00:35:39:01 , you can see quite readily what| kind of shades you will get. 00:35:42:04 , 00:35:46:00 , The dye is done now.| Let's look on the results. 00:35:58:06 , 00:36:01:06 , The ferrous mordant gives| a brown shade, 00:36:01:15 , 00:36:05:07 , and the desaturated mordant| will give pale colors, 00:36:05:19 , 00:36:09:13 , and from the yellow mordant,| the alum mordant, 00:36:09:21 , 00:36:13:23 , mixed with the ferrous you can| get that kind of khaki. 00:36:14:12 , 00:36:17:24 , Each plant will give| a large range of shades. 00:36:18:11 , 00:36:22:18 , I did prepare some other| printed pieces, 00:36:22:18 , 00:36:25:01 , in order to test| various plants. 00:36:25:03 , 00:36:29:08 , in the event the plant has a| very large amount of coloring matter 00:36:29:14 , 00:36:32:08 , the alum mordant will give a| very bright shade, 00:36:32:23 , 00:36:37:08 , and most of the time, a mix| of both will be very attractive 00:36:37:16 , 00:36:42:04 , so let's explore a few plants from the| garden and let's choose the best 00:36:42:04 , 00:36:45:11 , subject for our art. 00:36:51:20 , 00:36:56:10 , Let's summarize about our| exploration of dye plants. 00:36:56:13 , 00:37:03:15 , As long as we did this chart| of various mordants, 00:37:04:16 , 00:37:06:05 , we can use it 00:37:06:05 , 00:37:09:25 , for any kind of decoction or| extraction with plants, 00:37:10:05 , 00:37:12:16 , in order to have an idea| of what they give. 00:37:13:03 , 00:37:15:26 , I will finish my exploration| with 00:37:16:01 , 00:37:19:08 , Logwood Extract, which is| very concentrated 00:37:20:24 , 00:37:22:00 , dye stuff 00:37:22:03 , 00:37:26:01 , and then I will dip this piece 00:37:26:18 , 00:37:30:00 , in the Logwood Extract| dye bath 00:37:30:07 , 00:37:33:10 , and then I will comment on| all the other colors. 00:37:37:23 , 00:37:42:04 , Okay, now let's have a look on| the logwood piece. 00:37:44:02 , 00:37:46:26 , I will just have to rinse it first, 00:38:04:12 , 00:38:05:16 , Okay, 00:38:05:24 , 00:38:10:26 , here is the logwood chart.| Now let's look on the results. 00:38:11:02 , 00:38:14:22 , Okay -- this is wet, the others have| all been dried. 00:38:15:03 , 00:38:17:12 , So with the Weld, 00:38:19:06 , 00:38:21:17 , powdered, dried Weld, 00:38:21:27 , 00:38:23:09 , we have got 00:38:23:19 , 00:38:26:19 , quite a large range of| brownish khaki, 00:38:26:27 , 00:38:30:11 , and a yellow, which comes from| alum mordant 00:38:31:02 , 00:38:32:29 , and this is ferrous mordant, 00:38:33:09 , 00:38:37:29 , and all kinds of dissolutions| are mixed. 00:38:39:03 , 00:38:41:26 , With these fresh leaves from| Sawort 00:38:42:05 , 00:38:44:02 , we have got an equivalent 00:38:45:01 , 00:38:50:13 , but notice now that the| background is stained; 00:38:50:27 , 00:38:52:12 , perhaps this is the reason why 00:38:52:19 , 00:38:57:14 , people for centuries are cultivating| Weld instead of Sawort. 00:38:57:25 , 00:39:00:07 , The Sawort shades are very| attractive but 00:39:00:12 , 00:39:02:08 , very difficult to 00:39:02:08 , 00:39:04:10 , clean from the background. 00:39:05:25 , 00:39:07:28 , So, let's observe, 00:39:07:28 , 00:39:11:08 , what's with the| Red Leaf Grape Vine 00:39:12:08 , 00:39:14:13 , A kind of green shade, 00:39:14:13 , 00:39:16:10 , is achieved with alum mordant 00:39:16:22 , 00:39:18:11 , and all kinds of khaki. 00:39:19:02 , 00:39:22:06 , This is very interesting because 00:39:22:19 , 00:39:24:12 , we have some tannin 00:39:24:25 , 00:39:29:20 , as you know, tannin is fixing| on ferrous mordant specifically 00:39:29:25 , 00:39:33:22 , this sample will give information| about the composition. 00:39:34:08 , 00:39:36:17 , There is tannin,| and there is a weak 00:39:36:24 , 00:39:41:24 , amount of blue coloring matter| together with yellow. 00:39:42:13 , 00:39:45:05 , Flavonoids and anthocyanin together. 00:39:45:08 , 00:39:48:08 , So it's unusual,| and it's attractive. 00:39:48:13 , 00:39:52:06 , But the background is a little bit| stained, a little bit grayish. 00:39:52:11 , 00:39:54:25 , We will have to wash it, | energetically, 00:39:55:02 , 00:39:57:27 , that will be developed afterwards. 00:39:58:18 , 00:40:03:01 , About Logwood, we didn't have| time to dry it, 00:40:03:01 , 00:40:05:21 , but you can see that 00:40:06:03 , 00:40:08:02 , the background is very stained. 00:40:08:13 , 00:40:13:17 , So we will do a very big effort| to clean it after drying it. 00:40:13:29 , 00:40:17:26 , About Cosmos flowers, it's very| attractive because 00:40:18:15 , 00:40:23:16 , alum mordant will give an orange| shade, while the ferrous 00:40:23:17 , 00:40:27:29 , gives a kind of brown, and| mixing together a reddish-brown. 00:40:28:22 , 00:40:31:05 , There are probably no tannins| in these flowers. 00:40:32:26 , 00:40:39:00 , Gall Nut sample is very interesting| because the alum mordant 00:40:39:00 , 00:40:42:14 , doe not give any color except a| very pale gray 00:40:43:12 , 00:40:44:23 , which is not attractive 00:40:45:00 , 00:40:47:08 , while all ferrous mordants give 00:40:47:08 , 00:40:49:05 , a lot of different 00:40:50:19 , 00:40:52:11 , brownish grays 00:40:52:22 , 00:40:56:27 , so this is nearly pure tannin| and no coloring matter in it. 00:41:00:27 , 00:41:04:29 , Black tea is attractive as well| because there are a lot of 00:41:05:19 , 00:41:10:11 , brown-specific tannins| we call catechin, for 00:41:10:11 , 00:41:11:29 , brown colors with alum mordant 00:41:12:11 , 00:41:14:10 , and the ordinary Gallic tannins 00:41:14:22 , 00:41:17:21 , which give the blackish shades. 00:41:18:17 , 00:41:22:05 , The background may be difficult| to clean as well because 00:41:22:23 , 00:41:25:09 , that kind of coloring matter 00:41:25:21 , 00:41:28:28 , fixes quite well on the| background. 00:41:29:26 , 00:41:32:14 , Now let's have a look on| the Cochineal. 00:41:32:24 , 00:41:37:24 , With alum mordant, the| Cochineal will give reddish pink, 00:41:38:11 , 00:41:42:21 , mixing ferrous and alum mordants| it gives a kind of 00:41:43:08 , 00:41:45:21 , plum color, a kind of| violet, 00:41:46:12 , 00:41:50:03 , and then with a very pale| ferrous mordant, 00:41:50:08 , 00:41:54:26 , a very desaturated ferrous mordant| it gives a kind of blueish gray. 00:41:57:03 , 00:41:59:26 , So now we can summarize. 00:42:00:14 , 00:42:03:09 , For printing on textile,| we can even 00:42:04:06 , 00:42:09:12 , use some dried plants,| crushed in powder 00:42:09:27 , 00:42:11:24 , some fresh leaves, 00:42:11:24 , 00:42:14:06 , some dried leaves, 00:42:14:07 , 00:42:17:17 , some extract from Trade, 00:42:17:24 , 00:42:20:27 , some dried flowers, 00:42:21:14 , 00:42:23:10 , some Gall Nut, 00:42:23:20 , 00:42:25:10 , or even pieces of wood, 00:42:25:15 , 00:42:29:22 , some fermented leaves as tea,| or some insect. 00:42:30:16 , 00:42:32:11 , Depending on your choice, 00:42:32:20 , 00:42:34:19 , I suggest you 00:42:36:03 , 00:42:37:13 , test your, 00:42:37:26 , 00:42:42:06 , raw materials first with| that kind of thing we did, 00:42:42:12 , 00:42:45:16 , in order to select the best colors 00:42:45:17 , 00:42:48:12 , you intend to use for| your work. 00:42:48:23 , 00:42:52:25 , For example, I will choose now| cochineal again 00:42:53:09 , 00:42:56:12 , but I don't want all these shades| on my piece; 00:42:56:25 , 00:43:00:00 , I will just select the pure| alum mordant, 00:43:00:12 , 00:43:02:29 , I will not select the other ones here; 00:43:03:07 , 00:43:06:26 , I will select a mix of pure| alum mordant and ferrous mordant 00:43:07:04 , 00:43:08:25 , and then I will select 00:43:09:07 , 00:43:12:02 , a very desaturated pure| ferrous mordant 00:43:12:16 , 00:43:15:08 , in order to get only three| shades on my piece. 00:43:15:17 , 00:43:18:09 , Now let's go on with a bigger| piece 00:43:18:09 , 00:43:20:04 , dyed with Cochineal. 00:43:29:29 , 00:43:32:02 , Gosh -- look at these colors! 00:43:32:25 , 00:43:36:16 , A lot of different shades depending on| the mordants we used. 00:43:37:02 , 00:43:41:09 , So for the Cochineal as I said| I will just select 3 of them 00:43:41:14 , 00:43:43:07 , because these 10 shades 00:43:43:13 , 00:43:46:13 , are a little bit too much| for my art. 00:43:47:01 , 00:43:48:17 , So I prefer to use, 00:43:49:18 , 00:43:53:09 , This reddish shade which 00:43:53:09 , 00:43:55:18 , is from the alum mordant, 00:43:56:12 , 00:43:57:17 , and then this purple, 00:43:58:00 , 00:44:00:29 , will be interesting because| it is a mix 00:44:01:15 , 00:44:04:04 , half and half alum and 00:44:04:05 , 00:44:06:26 , concentrated ferrous mordant 00:44:07:14 , 00:44:11:12 , and then this very pale blueish| gray -- I like it a lot. 00:44:11:27 , 00:44:15:17 , And because I have to redo| all of these mordants for 00:44:15:24 , 00:44:18:15 , a large scale piece, 00:44:19:03 , 00:44:23:19 , I will try something else with a| very interesting plant 00:44:23:19 , 00:44:25:29 , which is red leaf grape vine. 00:44:26:14 , 00:44:30:05 , which results in quite a lot| of interesting shades. 00:44:30:29 , 00:44:33:03 , As for example,| this green one, 00:44:33:09 , 00:44:36:19 , from alum mordant,| this khaki, from 00:44:36:19 , 00:44:40:12 , a mix of ferrous mordant| and alum mordant, 00:44:40:23 , 00:44:42:09 , and this gray, 00:44:42:22 , 00:44:45:18 , from a very diluted ferrous mordant. 00:44:45:24 , 00:44:49:29 , So, I have to prepare all of| these mordants now. 00:44:52:29 , 00:44:56:21 , The concentrated alum mordant| is here, 00:44:57:09 , 00:45:00:19 , I just have to put it 00:45:01:18 , 00:45:03:18 , in the beaker again, 00:45:05:08 , 00:45:06:08 , and add the gum. 00:45:06:18 , 00:45:09:13 , 200 milliliters,| so it means 00:45:09:17 , 00:45:11:16 , 1% or 2 grams of gum. 00:45:12:18 , 00:45:15:21 , So that is the first one,| for the brilliant shade. 00:45:15:27 , 00:45:19:21 , It may be either the green| or the pink depending 00:45:19:23 , 00:45:21:26 , on the plant we choose. 00:45:29:15 , 00:45:32:03 , The second one is| a mix of both. 00:45:32:17 , 00:45:36:14 , So this is the concentrated| ferrous mordant. 00:45:36:27 , 00:45:39:26 , I will dilute half and half, 00:45:40:15 , 00:45:43:22 , which is already done here,| so the second mordant 00:45:45:03 , 00:45:47:12 , will be thickened| as required, 00:45:48:10 , 00:45:49:15 , here, 00:45:49:19 , 00:45:53:04 , and the third mordant is a very| diluted ferrous mordant 00:45:53:04 , 00:45:56:09 , in order to get very pale grays| or 00:45:56:22 , 00:45:59:22 , even blueish grays with| the second one, 00:45:59:26 , 00:46:04:02 , it's already done here,| I just need to add the gum now. 00:46:11:04 , 00:46:12:01 , Okay... 00:46:12:01 , 00:46:14:01 , this one is ready, 00:46:16:23 , 00:46:21:17 , I will finish with a mix of| concentrated mordants 00:46:28:17 , 00:46:30:14 , and then I finish with the 00:46:31:03 , 00:46:33:21 , very diluted ferrous mordant. 00:46:34:26 , 00:46:38:12 , My three mordants are ready again, 00:46:38:29 , 00:46:40:09 , I just have to 00:46:41:04 , 00:46:44:16 , use them with some brushes| on a big piece of fabric. 00:46:44:27 , 00:46:50:18 , My first piece of fabric I will| dedicate to Cochineal shades, 00:46:51:08 , 00:46:56:13 , from these crushed cochineals, I| already crushed here with my mortar, 00:46:57:12 , 00:47:01:15 , and the second piece will be dedicated| to this red leaf grave vine, 00:47:02:29 , 00:47:06:10 , producing these lovely| greenish shades, 00:47:06:10 , 00:47:09:02 , so let's design on a| piece of fabric. 00:47:15:19 , 00:47:18:15 , Let's start with the alum mordant. 00:47:18:19 , 00:47:23:13 , As you now know, this is| the mordant for brilliant colors. 00:47:23:18 , 00:47:27:04 , It may be even| green, 00:47:27:10 , 00:47:30:12 , with vine leaves, or| pink with cochineal, 00:47:30:15 , 00:47:32:25 , depending on the plant you choose, 00:47:33:00 , 00:47:36:19 , but this is the mordant for brilliant| colors -- remember this. 00:47:38:01 , 00:47:41:05 , Okay, so we will just put it| like that. 00:47:53:01 , 00:47:54:06 , That's all. 00:47:55:00 , 00:47:57:23 , Now let's try the 00:47:58:25 , 00:48:01:21 , mixed mordant| which will give 00:48:02:14 , 00:48:06:18 , different mixed shades,| as for example a khaki, 00:48:07:16 , 00:48:09:22 , with red vine leaf, 00:48:09:28 , 00:48:12:19 , and a purple with Cochineal. 00:48:39:15 , 00:48:42:03 , That's all for the mixed| mordant. 00:48:42:03 , 00:48:44:17 , And then the very pale| mordant, 00:48:45:02 , 00:48:48:01 , from the diluted ferrous| mordant, 00:48:48:28 , 00:48:53:02 , will be added now from place to| place, as for example, 00:48:54:09 , 00:48:56:21 , in the middle of the leaves, 00:49:02:26 , 00:49:05:19 , and from places to places. 00:49:09:25 , 00:49:14:01 , so, maybe some small drops, 00:49:16:23 , 00:49:18:25 , from place to place, 00:49:20:13 , 00:49:24:21 , remember, now, we have to dry it| very very carefully, 00:49:25:04 , 00:49:28:18 , until there is no smell of| vinegar any more. 00:49:28:25 , 00:49:33:20 , The vinegar has to be totally| evaporated, 00:49:34:08 , 00:49:35:04 , so, 00:49:35:13 , 00:49:38:05 , I will set this piece aside for a| while 00:49:38:05 , 00:49:40:21 , until it doesn't smell of| vinegar any more. 00:49:41:15 , 00:49:44:15 , Let's wait a moment now. 00:49:50:15 , 00:49:55:00 , My two pieces are now finished| and very well dried. 00:49:55:21 , 00:49:58:16 , So I can store it for| the next dyes. 00:49:59:13 , 00:50:00:10 , And now, 00:50:01:04 , 00:50:06:01 , because I have some mordant left| and I don't want to waste it, 00:50:06:16 , 00:50:09:16 , and because I can use it| until the last drop, 00:50:09:25 , 00:50:12:09 , then I will reuse it with these 00:50:12:23 , 00:50:15:01 , little stamps I showed| you before. 00:50:15:14 , 00:50:17:28 , The method is very simple. 00:50:18:14 , 00:50:23:18 , I started with the two mordants| here, and the last one, 00:50:23:28 , 00:50:25:27 , is here as well, so, 00:50:26:15 , 00:50:29:29 , I will print and even overlap| the mordants 00:50:30:06 , 00:50:33:29 , in order to see what's going on with| this overlapping process. 00:50:34:24 , 00:50:38:25 , This is a clean, non-polluting| process, we don't throw away 00:50:39:06 , 00:50:42:11 , the mordant, we use it| until the last drop, 00:50:42:19 , 00:50:46:16 , then we fix it on the fabric in order| not to waste it in the water 00:50:46:24 , 00:50:48:19 , and not to pollute. 00:50:49:00 , 00:50:52:24 , So, you can store the mordant| for a very long time. 00:50:53:02 , 00:50:57:07 , I suggest then you work first| on your printing 00:50:57:28 , 00:51:00:15 , and then store the printed pieces| for use later 00:51:00:15 , 00:51:02:07 , so when you are ready| for them, 00:51:02:10 , 00:51:04:08 , you can dye them. 00:51:05:27 , 00:51:07:15 , Let's go on with this project. 00:51:08:05 , 00:51:11:25 , This piece will be dedicated| to cochineal. 00:51:12:23 , 00:51:16:00 , With a few of these colors, 00:51:16:05 , 00:51:19:25 , and this piece will be dyed with the| red leaf grave vine. 00:51:20:16 , 00:51:24:02 , So first of all,| don't forget to fix your mordant. 00:51:24:21 , 00:51:28:03 , I suggest to fix the mordant 00:51:28:09 , 00:51:31:14 , right after you use it| in order not to forget 00:51:32:00 , 00:51:34:23 , if you don't fix it,| it will be a disaster 00:51:35:08 , 00:51:36:06 , in the dye bath. 00:51:37:07 , 00:51:40:11 , So in order to fix it correctly, 00:51:40:17 , 00:51:44:12 , I will just use the wheat bran| as previously 00:51:44:18 , 00:51:46:08 , in warm water 00:51:46:16 , 00:51:49:04 , then it will take a few minutes 00:51:49:20 , 00:51:53:11 , until the brownish shade turns| totally yellow. 00:51:54:00 , 00:51:55:23 , So let's do it now. 00:52:13:22 , 00:52:17:23 , Okay it will take about| 5 or 10 minutes. 00:52:25:05 , 00:52:30:04 , As you may notice,| the color has turned to yellow 00:52:30:22 , 00:52:33:17 , which is the exact shade| we need 00:52:33:20 , 00:52:37:00 , because it shows the| mordant is totally fixed. 00:52:38:06 , 00:52:39:28 , So let's start with 00:52:40:14 , 00:52:42:07 , the cochineal dye bath. 00:52:42:19 , 00:52:45:01 , So the cochineal has been| pounded, 00:52:45:16 , 00:52:46:25 , carefully, 00:52:47:06 , 00:52:52:09 , and I will add it,| into the water, 00:52:53:17 , 00:52:55:17 , I stir it a little bit, 00:53:05:24 , 00:53:08:00 , so the dye bath is ready. 00:53:08:24 , 00:53:13:09 , I just have to put this fabric in,| and, 00:53:13:17 , 00:53:16:14 , cook it very very slowly, 00:53:16:25 , 00:53:19:00 , until the temperature is 80℃. 00:53:19:10 , 00:53:20:26 , This will take about 00:53:21:12 , 00:53:24:29 , at minimum one half hour| for a very saturated shade. 00:53:26:22 , 00:53:28:27 , The second piece, 00:53:29:18 , 00:53:33:07 , Will be dyed with these vine leaves. 00:53:37:17 , 00:53:41:19 , I just have to dilute some of these 00:53:42:10 , 00:53:46:14 , very well crushed leaves, 00:53:48:25 , 00:53:53:20 , a little more because we noticed| that this is not a very strong dye, 00:54:02:27 , 00:54:04:00 , okay... 00:54:04:06 , 00:54:08:16 , then, I will add my second piece,| and then, 00:54:09:14 , 00:54:14:24 , we have to wait for about| half an hour for each one. 00:54:24:06 , 00:54:26:13 , So now let's wait. 00:54:30:28 , 00:54:33:07 , Now the dye is done. 00:54:33:16 , 00:54:35:18 , Let's rinse first, 00:54:37:15 , 00:54:38:24 , the piece, 00:54:47:03 , 00:54:49:08 , okay...and the second one, 00:55:09:17 , 00:55:14:08 , Then we rinse several times, in order| to get it as clean as possible 00:55:14:16 , 00:55:17:29 , before having a look| on the results. 00:55:20:01 , 00:55:21:17 , Let's have a look on the results. 00:55:22:07 , 00:55:24:10 , Actually, the color appeared, 00:55:24:19 , 00:55:26:27 , but the background is| not very clean. 00:55:27:12 , 00:55:29:21 , That is very common with| natural dyes. 00:55:30:14 , 00:55:32:08 , The other one, 00:55:33:01 , 00:55:35:27 , is similar, the background| is grayish, 00:55:36:02 , 00:55:37:27 , which is not very attractive 00:55:38:02 , 00:55:39:26 , so I will show you now 00:55:40:15 , 00:55:43:08 , a very simple way to clean| the backgrounds. 00:55:45:17 , 00:55:47:04 , This is Wheat Bran. 00:55:47:17 , 00:55:49:00 , You know it now. 00:55:49:09 , 00:55:53:19 , This wheat bran, because of the| high content of natural phosphate 00:55:53:23 , 00:55:57:23 , in it, will give a very big help| for cleaning the background. 00:55:58:04 , 00:56:02:16 , Very easily.| Just put some 00:56:03:02 , 00:56:06:00 , wheat bran together with the dye, 00:56:06:21 , 00:56:08:22 , in warm water, 00:56:09:07 , 00:56:12:27 , and press it a little bit| for a while, 00:56:13:14 , 00:56:16:14 , and then all the stain, 00:56:17:19 , 00:56:19:22 , all the staining color will, 00:56:20:12 , 00:56:21:29 , be dissolved. 00:56:21:29 , 00:56:23:21 , So this will take about 00:56:24:13 , 00:56:26:12 , 10 Minutes. 00:56:28:18 , 00:56:30:18 , Now the fabrics are dried. 00:56:31:08 , 00:56:32:27 , So this was the project. 00:56:33:18 , 00:56:37:16 , We intended to include together a| red shade, 00:56:38:06 , 00:56:41:17 , we have got it| because of the large amount 00:56:41:22 , 00:56:47:02 , we used it is a little bit stronger,| we needed that kind of blue, 00:56:47:17 , 00:56:50:04 , which is included in here, 00:56:50:11 , 00:56:52:25 , and then the violet shade which is 00:56:53:24 , 00:56:54:18 , in the middle. 00:56:55:08 , 00:56:57:05 , So this is the first project. 00:56:57:22 , 00:56:59:16 , And about the vine leaves, 00:57:00:07 , 00:57:03:09 , for this project we were looking for| a khaki color, 00:57:03:09 , 00:57:04:19 , which is here, 00:57:05:15 , 00:57:07:12 , then the grayish shade, 00:57:08:11 , 00:57:10:12 , is here in the middle, 00:57:10:29 , 00:57:12:00 , and then, 00:57:12:09 , 00:57:15:05 , the greenish yellow is| all around. 00:57:18:02 , 00:57:21:18 , Now, we still have another piece, 00:57:21:29 , 00:57:24:04 , we printed this piece previously, 00:57:24:23 , 00:57:25:25 , in case we needed it, 00:57:26:07 , 00:57:29:03 , and so now I suggest we go on| with another plant 00:57:29:21 , 00:57:32:24 , we haven't discovered yet,| which is Madder. 00:57:32:29 , 00:57:37:11 , Madder is a very traditional dye plant| from Provence, 00:57:37:26 , 00:57:41:08 , it is supposed to give the very| best red in the world. 00:57:43:28 , 00:57:50:17 , By digging the root, we can see the| reddish shade inside of the earth. 00:57:50:26 , 00:57:57:26 , Here is the madder root, which will| give the best red after treatment. 00:58:08:07 , 00:58:11:22 , So this fabric is ready for| dyeing process, 00:58:12:12 , 00:58:13:25 , with Madder. 00:58:13:28 , 00:58:18:14 , Madder is this very interesting| plant, some roots are here. 00:58:19:00 , 00:58:23:05 , This perennial plant has been| cultivated for centuries in Provence 00:58:23:18 , 00:58:26:05 , for the very typical| Provencal red, 00:58:26:07 , 00:58:27:20 , I will show you afterwards. 00:58:28:03 , 00:58:32:03 , These roots have to be crushed very| well in order to make 00:58:32:03 , 00:58:34:18 , this fine powder, which is here, 00:58:35:05 , 00:58:38:19 , because if you don't do it,| you will never get easily this color. 00:58:44:25 , 00:58:49:23 , Remember-- we did print this piece,| but we didn't fix it in wheat bran 00:58:50:07 , 00:58:52:05 , because I may add, 00:58:53:03 , 00:58:55:21 , a second effect together, 00:58:56:05 , 00:58:57:10 , -- the mordants. 00:58:57:14 , 00:59:00:14 , I will propose to you a discharge 00:59:00:28 , 00:59:02:21 , with this lemon juice. 00:59:03:02 , 00:59:05:12 , what exactly is a discharge? 00:59:06:17 , 00:59:09:25 , This mordant has not been| fixed yet. 00:59:10:00 , 00:59:12:16 , It has not been in the| wheat bran bath, 00:59:12:23 , 00:59:16:22 , so we are able now to| discharge some parts 00:59:17:03 , 00:59:18:05 , of the mordant. 00:59:18:17 , 00:59:23:09 , The lemon juice will dissolve| the mordant locally if I print 00:59:23:14 , 00:59:24:19 , if I print with it, 00:59:24:26 , 00:59:27:21 , and then it will give another effect. 00:59:27:26 , 00:59:31:03 , A pale color in the middle| of the others. 00:59:31:15 , 00:59:34:09 , So, let's prepare this discharge. 00:59:36:17 , 00:59:39:25 , Okay, let's cut the lemon first| and extract the juice. 01:00:02:14 , 01:00:03:19 , Okay, that's enough. 01:00:04:05 , 01:00:05:25 , So as usual, 01:00:06:13 , 01:00:08:12 , I will put this lemon juice 01:00:09:13 , 01:00:11:13 , in the beaker, 01:00:14:13 , 01:00:16:15 , with a small amount of gum, 01:00:17:10 , 01:00:18:24 , in order to, 01:00:20:02 , 01:00:23:01 , fix it very well. 01:00:29:28 , 01:00:33:27 , It must be...like a kind| of syrup. 01:00:34:03 , 01:00:39:19 , Don't forget the gum, because| sometimes it may stain a little bit 01:00:39:19 , 01:00:40:20 , the fabric. 01:00:48:04 , 01:00:48:25 , So, 01:00:49:12 , 01:00:50:08 , now, 01:00:51:02 , 01:00:54:04 , this discharge is ready,| so I will prepare another 01:00:55:06 , 01:00:57:11 , of these blocks, 01:00:57:27 , 01:00:59:26 , easily made, 01:01:01:12 , 01:01:03:17 , there is the new block. 01:01:04:26 , 01:01:05:21 , Okay.... 01:01:06:03 , 01:01:09:15 , We are ready to print| the discharge, 01:01:09:28 , 01:01:13:01 , on the mordant, we will| overlap the discharge 01:01:13:18 , 01:01:15:17 , on the mordant,| in order just to 01:01:16:27 , 01:01:19:03 , neutralize the mordanting effect. 01:01:19:21 , 01:01:20:24 , So let's do it. 01:01:40:00 , 01:01:42:11 , So as you can see, 01:01:43:24 , 01:01:47:03 , the discharge will generate| a pale color, 01:01:47:18 , 01:01:50:09 , at the place where| we apply it. 01:02:07:02 , 01:02:08:15 , This is attractive because 01:02:08:22 , 01:02:09:17 , you will get 01:02:09:24 , 01:02:10:22 , evidently 01:02:11:27 , 01:02:15:19 , a few different shades in the| same dye bath. 01:02:20:24 , 01:02:24:14 , I even can discharge one| overlapping, 01:02:24:19 , 01:02:28:02 , sometimes it will not be| a full discharge 01:02:28:11 , 01:02:30:11 , but a partial discharge. 01:02:35:22 , 01:02:37:08 , For example, here, 01:02:37:20 , 01:02:39:26 , the mordant are overlapped, 01:02:40:24 , 01:02:43:24 , and even the discharge,| so it will give 01:02:44:13 , 01:02:46:08 , some different effects. 01:03:05:22 , 01:03:07:09 , I will finish the piece now, 01:03:07:16 , 01:03:10:27 , then we will dry it, and remember,| we will have to 01:03:11:10 , 01:03:15:19 , put this in the wheat bran bath| in order to fix it 01:03:16:00 , 01:03:18:17 , -- all of the printed pieces. 01:03:23:29 , 01:03:27:17 , So now the piece| has been dried, 01:03:28:11 , 01:03:30:17 , fixed in the wheat bran bath, 01:03:31:01 , 01:03:32:00 , and rinsed. 01:03:32:14 , 01:03:34:09 , As you can see, 01:03:35:01 , 01:03:40:16 , the discharge was very efficient| because in places where we put it 01:03:41:01 , 01:03:42:23 , the color 01:03:43:07 , 01:03:45:25 , disappeared -- the color of the| mordant disappeared. 01:03:45:25 , 01:03:47:19 , so we are ready to dye the piece. 01:03:52:25 , 01:03:57:05 , In order to dye the piece now,| I must take care on the temperature 01:03:58:05 , 01:04:01:02 , the starting point will be 01:04:01:13 , 01:04:03:01 , 50℃ 01:04:03:18 , 01:04:05:07 , So, here is the water 01:04:05:17 , 01:04:09:11 , 50℃ water, I will add my powder now 01:04:11:25 , 01:04:16:18 , remember -- the dyeing process will| take about 1 hour. 01:04:17:21 , 01:04:20:01 , Increase from 50℃ to 80℃ 01:04:20:15 , 01:04:23:17 , you have to increase| very gently the temperature, 01:04:24:27 , 01:04:27:09 , and then when reaching 01:04:28:00 , 01:04:31:20 , the right temperature, just| finish it by rinsing 01:04:31:25 , 01:04:36:05 , and then we will see how it does| for washing the background again. 01:04:56:13 , 01:04:59:27 , This is done. Now let me increase the| temperature a little bit. 01:05:00:07 , 01:05:04:00 , And now we wait for about 1 hour. 01:05:06:13 , 01:05:07:20 , We are ready now. 01:05:08:04 , 01:05:11:18 , We started at 50℃, and during 1 hour, 01:05:11:28 , 01:05:12:22 , we went to 01:05:13:10 , 01:05:15:23 , 80℃ -- so that's enough. 01:05:16:06 , 01:05:18:17 , Let's rinse the piece and| have a look at it. 01:05:28:02 , 01:05:31:04 , The fabric is rinsed now, 01:05:31:15 , 01:05:36:17 , and as you can see the background| is very stained from the madder. 01:05:36:27 , 01:05:37:12 , So, 01:05:37:23 , 01:05:43:03 , I will show you some| ways to clean this background. 01:05:44:03 , 01:05:48:04 , The wheat bran can be used, but it| will be quite a long time, 01:05:48:09 , 01:05:51:15 , even when including| ordinary soap together, 01:05:51:15 , 01:05:54:12 , so I will present to you another| option. 01:05:55:22 , 01:06:02:23 , This is made with Castor Oil,| it's called 'sulfonated castor oil'. 01:06:02:29 , 01:06:04:22 , It's a very old thing, 01:06:05:05 , 01:06:08:17 , which was discovered during| the 19th Century 01:06:09:07 , 01:06:11:17 , so with warm water, 01:06:12:01 , 01:06:15:03 , and this soluble castor oil, 01:06:16:02 , 01:06:18:00 , we just have to dip 01:06:19:07 , 01:06:21:12 , for a few minutes, and then 01:06:22:00 , 01:06:25:03 , the background will be cleaned quite| a lot 01:06:25:19 , 01:06:28:10 , so that's a very big secret for | madder because 01:06:28:26 , 01:06:32:08 , many people are very worried 01:06:32:25 , 01:06:34:13 , about how to clean the background 01:06:34:26 , 01:06:35:25 , in the old times 01:06:36:12 , 01:06:39:06 , we put it in the sunlight| for days 01:06:39:19 , 01:06:42:29 , and put it in water again, and sun again, 01:06:43:07 , 01:06:48:05 , so it took a very long time a the very| beginning of Provencal textiles 01:06:48:05 , 01:06:54:06 , it took about 3 weeks to clean these | backgrounds, but the color is so fast, 01:06:54:06 , 01:06:55:29 , that it doesn't matter for the color 01:06:56:10 , 01:07:02:15 , but I presented a very fast way of | cleaning with sulfonated castor oil. 01:07:10:09 , 01:07:14:11 , Let's set the previous textile| aside to soak for a while, 01:07:14:17 , 01:07:17:19 , for cleaning and processing| in the sulfonated castor oil. 01:07:18:23 , 01:07:20:16 , Now you know how to design 01:07:21:02 , 01:07:26:08 , for colored designs on a white | background, but what about 01:07:26:21 , 01:07:29:03 , white designs on a | colored background? 01:07:29:21 , 01:07:30:25 , This is concerning 01:07:31:09 , 01:07:32:17 , immersion dye first. 01:07:33:06 , 01:07:38:01 , So. Here I have some | mordant left from before. 01:07:38:17 , 01:07:41:05 , So there is no gum in it. 01:07:41:15 , 01:07:44:11 , We don't need gum.| I will first 01:07:45:22 , 01:07:47:04 , mordant these pieces, 01:07:47:27 , 01:07:51:25 , and because I have four different| mordants I will prepare four pieces. 01:07:52:27 , 01:07:56:25 , Then, as you know, we will have to| dry it, 01:07:57:24 , 01:08:02:10 , and to print it with the lemon juice 01:08:02:25 , 01:08:06:04 , and then while dyeing| it will give some 01:08:06:08 , 01:08:12:02 , attractive white designs on a| colored background. 01:08:37:06 , 01:08:40:24 , So this is the normal mordanting| process for immersion dye. 01:08:41:06 , 01:08:44:07 , If you follow this method.| But, 01:08:44:24 , 01:08:50:11 , actually we will not dye it;| we will just print the discharge first. 01:09:34:12 , 01:09:39:03 , We don't have to throw any mordant| away, we can use it to the last drop. 01:09:39:20 , 01:09:41:27 , This is a very precious thing. 01:09:42:03 , 01:09:46:24 , By using this method it is| quite ecological. 01:09:47:07 , 01:09:49:19 , Because you never throw away| any mineral. 01:09:50:17 , 01:09:54:14 , Okay, the four pieces are ready| for drying process. 01:09:54:28 , 01:09:56:26 , And then we will go on. 01:10:00:12 , 01:10:02:15 , Now the four pieces are dry. 01:10:03:20 , 01:10:08:11 , I will print it with the lemon juice | in order to discharge 01:10:08:29 , 01:10:10:14 , one part of the mordant. 01:10:10:23 , 01:10:12:11 , As you may notice, 01:10:12:19 , 01:10:15:26 , because I pressed it very quickly| in the mordant, 01:10:16:08 , 01:10:20:11 , I can get that kind of pattern,| which may be suitable in your art. 01:10:20:29 , 01:10:23:12 , So now let's go on| with the discharge. 01:10:30:24 , 01:10:35:18 , So this is the first piece,| made with ferrous mordant. 01:10:49:16 , 01:10:53:15 , The second piece will be done| with another block, 01:10:55:00 , 01:10:58:08 , and third piece with another block,| and so on, 01:10:58:11 , 01:11:00:05 , and so we will get four pieces 01:11:00:17 , 01:11:03:18 , that we will dye in the same| madder dye bath. 01:11:07:09 , 01:11:09:25 , So the second piece will be 01:11:10:22 , 01:11:11:12 , purple 01:11:11:14 , 01:11:15:13 , the third piece will be red, the| fourth piece gray but all 01:11:15:16 , 01:11:17:27 , together dyed in the same| madder bath. 01:11:18:09 , 01:11:22:20 , So let's go on with the| discharging process. 01:11:27:11 , 01:11:28:27 , So the first piece, 01:11:29:22 , 01:11:33:00 , from the very concentrated| ferrous mordant, 01:11:33:16 , 01:11:35:02 , has been dyed with 01:11:35:21 , 01:11:39:19 , this small polystyrene block. 01:11:40:17 , 01:11:42:15 , the second one, 01:11:42:23 , 01:11:48:00 , which is mordanted with the very| diluted ferrous mordant, 01:11:48:11 , 01:11:50:11 , nearly colorless, 01:11:50:11 , 01:11:55:06 , has been printed with this small| rounded bar, 01:11:56:08 , 01:11:58:07 , then for the third one, 01:11:59:16 , 01:12:01:13 , which is mordanted with alum, 01:12:01:26 , 01:12:03:18 , totally colorless mordant, 01:12:04:01 , 01:12:07:04 , I printed some little squares on it, 01:12:07:29 , 01:12:10:19 , with this block, 01:12:11:02 , 01:12:13:18 , and now, about the last one, 01:12:14:04 , 01:12:19:16 , I did totally finish my discharge paste, 01:12:19:16 , 01:12:23:11 , I did choose to print it| with the lemon by itself. 01:12:24:13 , 01:12:27:29 , So I just printed the lemon| on the mordant like that, 01:12:28:06 , 01:12:31:08 , in order to generate a kind of rough 01:12:32:06 , 01:12:33:26 , pattern. 01:12:36:20 , 01:12:38:17 , Okay, now this is the madder 01:12:38:19 , 01:12:39:24 , bath, 01:12:39:24 , 01:12:43:15 , a bigger one, so the four| pieces will give 01:12:43:18 , 01:12:47:21 , four different shades including the| discharge, 01:12:50:01 , 01:12:52:29 , and this will take quite a|lot. 01:12:53:03 , 01:12:55:18 , About 1 hour is suitable. 01:13:02:22 , 01:13:05:04 , And because this will take some time, 01:13:05:11 , 01:13:10:13 , I suggest we go back to the first fabric| we printed, which is here, 01:13:11:23 , 01:13:12:23 , which 01:13:13:05 , 01:13:18:10 , we are trying to clean| with the sulfonated castor oil. 01:13:24:08 , 01:13:25:27 , This is the piece. 01:13:26:11 , 01:13:27:27 , As you may notice now, 01:13:28:20 , 01:13:33:03 , the castor oil did | quite a good job. 01:13:33:22 , 01:13:37:20 , But in case you aren't patient to wait | a little more, 01:13:38:08 , 01:13:42:13 , I will show you some other possibility| to finish the washing 01:13:42:24 , 01:13:45:02 , which is using| 'Marseille Soap' 01:13:45:14 , 01:13:50:08 , this is the traditional Marseille Soap| we used for 01:13:50:19 , 01:13:52:05 , fabrics in the past, 01:13:52:15 , 01:13:54:06 , so the method is very easy. 01:13:54:17 , 01:13:58:02 , In the warm water now I will prepare| some slices of it, 01:13:58:24 , 01:14:00:04 , dissolve it, 01:14:00:28 , 01:14:04:03 , and just dip my fabric in it for| a while. 01:14:08:05 , 01:14:09:16 , Okay -- that's enough. 01:14:11:13 , 01:14:14:11 , Now I will take care to dissolve| it a little bit. 01:14:14:26 , 01:14:19:01 , And that's all -- I just have to finish it| by a short dip in it. 01:14:19:07 , 01:14:22:07 , I must tell you something about| this Marseille Soap. 01:14:22:12 , 01:14:25:12 , This is very important.| In the past, 01:14:25:16 , 01:14:29:05 , this Marseille Soap was| very appreciated by dyers, 01:14:29:08 , 01:14:30:00 , because 01:14:30:04 , 01:14:32:20 , it acts as a co-mordant. 01:14:32:21 , 01:14:36:04 , The fatty substance will| bind with the mordant 01:14:36:04 , 01:14:39:13 , even when the complete| schedule is finished. 01:14:40:10 , 01:14:43:01 , And then it will give a very| brilliant shade, 01:14:43:11 , 01:14:45:22 , overall with the ferrous mordant. 01:14:46:19 , 01:14:51:04 , With the normal process, the ferrous| mordant gives a kind of blackish shade 01:14:51:10 , 01:14:55:27 , but because of this soap, it will| turn to a very brilliant violet. 01:14:56:04 , 01:14:59:00 , So now we have to wait| a little more. 01:15:03:00 , 01:15:04:18 , So this is the cleaned piece. 01:15:05:02 , 01:15:08:07 , The three mordants will give you| three different colors. 01:15:08:19 , 01:15:10:21 , alum will give you red, 01:15:10:29 , 01:15:14:16 , ferrous mordant will give you| blueish purple, 01:15:15:10 , 01:15:20:18 , and a mix of both will give| a kind of plum color. 01:15:21:10 , 01:15:24:19 , And you will notice that the lemon| discharged 01:15:24:23 , 01:15:28:12 , on all the places it was applied over| the mordants. 01:15:29:08 , 01:15:32:00 , So now let's have a look on the pieces 01:15:32:15 , 01:15:35:20 , we were dyeing in this madder pot. 01:15:35:23 , 01:15:38:29 , With the alum mordant, we| have got a kind of 01:15:39:20 , 01:15:40:26 , pale red, 01:15:41:01 , 01:15:45:29 , and the discharge will give some place| maybe for including more colors if we want. 01:15:46:07 , 01:15:51:25 , In the same dye bath,| the ferrous mordant 01:15:52:05 , 01:15:56:20 , didn't discharge all of the color, | but most of it, so, 01:15:56:25 , 01:16:01:07 , we get a kind of pale violet together| with the very dark violet. 01:16:04:13 , 01:16:08:27 , In this piece which has been| discharged with the lemon by itself 01:16:09:20 , 01:16:11:11 , we may notice that 01:16:11:26 , 01:16:14:02 , it's quite efficient as well. 01:16:14:28 , 01:16:16:26 , And the last one, 01:16:19:12 , 01:16:25:17 , has been developed in the same dye bath| with a diluted ferrous mordant. 01:16:26:14 , 01:16:28:20 , Then, in the same dye bath, 01:16:29:05 , 01:16:31:01 , all of these different shades, 01:16:31:21 , 01:16:36:15 , will be interesting for developing| some 01:16:36:21 , 01:16:42:00 , polychromatic effect by including some| other colors together with these, 01:16:42:03 , 01:16:45:12 , and this will be developed in| the next chapter. 01:16:59:27 , 01:17:02:21 , This piece is already polychromatic 01:17:02:21 , 01:17:04:19 , by the use of various mordants. 01:17:05:25 , 01:17:10:01 , The other pieces we did previously| were also 01:17:10:01 , 01:17:13:01 , polychromatic,| but in some cases, 01:17:13:08 , 01:17:17:23 , I may be interested in adding some| Indigo together with these colors. 01:17:17:27 , 01:17:21:23 , So because this one is a little bit | blueish from the Cochineal, 01:17:21:27 , 01:17:25:28 , I will not add Indigo and blue together;| it doesn't make 01:17:26:11 , 01:17:27:28 , so much sense. 01:17:28:06 , 01:17:32:01 , For this one I am very interested| to add Indigo. 01:17:32:10 , 01:17:33:13 , Then remember, 01:17:33:24 , 01:17:39:27 , We did prepare a clay resist paste| at the beginning for the Indigo vat 01:17:39:28 , 01:17:43:28 , so by adding the resist paste on it, 01:17:44:09 , 01:17:46:07 , we will be able to keep 01:17:46:13 , 01:17:52:05 , keep the design, and add Indigo| in the places we will chose. 01:17:52:26 , 01:17:53:26 , Let's do it now. 01:17:55:02 , 01:17:56:28 , I've got my resist paste again, 01:17:57:23 , 01:17:59:09 , then now I will paint, 01:17:59:24 , 01:18:02:01 , at any place I want to save 01:18:02:21 , 01:18:04:03 , the color. 01:18:04:19 , 01:18:09:17 , So remember this paste is made| from 3 things 01:18:09:24 , 01:18:12:12 , so I called it the paste| 1-2-3! 01:18:13:04 , 01:18:20:28 , for 100ml, it is 1 part| or 10 grams Magnesium Sulfate, 01:18:21:17 , 01:18:24:14 , 2 parts arabic gum, 01:18:25:00 , 01:18:28:12 , and 3 parts of clay. 01:18:34:28 , 01:18:37:02 , I will apply this paste, 01:18:37:21 , 01:18:41:12 , on all the places I want to save,| in order to get some 01:18:41:19 , 01:18:47:25 , blue designs together with| the color we already did. 01:18:49:16 , 01:18:52:14 , The clay is dry now. 01:18:52:20 , 01:18:55:14 , You know the following step, 01:18:55:14 , 01:19:00:28 , we just have to dip it in the Indigo vat, 01:19:00:28 , 01:19:06:10 , for a short while, and then,| the Indigo will stick 01:19:08:20 , 01:19:12:04 , on the places without the| painted clay resist. 01:19:13:00 , 01:19:15:07 , It will not take so much time, 01:19:15:20 , 01:19:18:00 , because I want a quite pale color. 01:19:20:10 , 01:19:21:16 , Okay, 01:19:30:00 , 01:19:32:19 , Now let's rinse the piece. 01:19:35:29 , 01:19:37:03 , Okay, 01:19:37:07 , 01:19:41:03 , the fabric is rinsed, let's| observe the results. 01:19:42:03 , 01:19:45:06 , so, as you can see, 01:19:45:16 , 01:19:49:16 , the mordanted piece has been| preserved by the resist paste, 01:19:49:23 , 01:19:52:09 , and the Indigo provided| another shade. 01:19:52:28 , 01:19:58:17 , You can understand now that by the | combination of Indigo process and 01:19:58:17 , 01:20:02:11 , mordant process there is an infinite| range of possibilities. 01:20:03:07 , 01:20:06:11 , We will develop this point| in the next section. 01:20:10:08 , 01:20:14:11 , This piece shows| the first possibility 01:20:14:24 , 01:20:16:19 , for polychromatic effect. 01:20:16:23 , 01:20:19:26 , We printed mordant first,| then we dyed, 01:20:20:20 , 01:20:24:17 , then we applied the resist paste| and finished in the Indigo vat. 01:20:25:22 , 01:20:26:23 , But remember, 01:20:27:12 , 01:20:30:01 , it's always possible to 01:20:30:26 , 01:20:32:25 , put the whole piece in the mordant, 01:20:33:05 , 01:20:38:00 , as we did very quickly to get a cloudy| effect in the background. 01:20:38:17 , 01:20:41:01 , Then we can remove| the mordant, 01:20:42:06 , 01:20:45:19 , with the discharge paste,| then we can dye. 01:20:45:25 , 01:20:46:17 , So, 01:20:46:22 , 01:20:52:02 , at one time in the same dye bath| we did 4 shades with 4 mordants 01:20:53:01 , 01:20:54:08 , this one, 01:20:56:25 , 01:20:58:09 , this one, 01:21:00:01 , 01:21:01:07 , and this one. 01:21:01:23 , 01:21:03:06 , Actually, then we have 01:21:03:27 , 01:21:05:26 , got 4 different pieces 01:21:07:05 , 01:21:10:11 , to discover different manners 01:21:10:11 , 01:21:13:05 , for preparing polychromatic| textiles. 01:21:13:14 , 01:21:16:00 , So I will start with this one first. 01:21:22:09 , 01:21:23:15 , In this piece, 01:21:24:04 , 01:21:26:18 , my project is to do both, 01:21:27:04 , 01:21:31:01 , violet shades, white shades,| very dark blue and 01:21:31:04 , 01:21:34:12 , light blue -- all together in| only one dye bath. 01:21:35:00 , 01:21:39:27 , So, first step is to cover some places| with this resist paste, 01:21:40:16 , 01:21:43:01 , I told you that is| made with clay. 01:21:45:27 , 01:21:48:18 , Okay, any place I will cover| with this clay 01:21:49:05 , 01:21:51:28 , will be preserved from the| Indigo. 01:22:16:19 , 01:22:18:01 , Let's finish the piece now. 01:22:24:27 , 01:22:29:03 , So now let's finish with printing| the piece, then we will dry it, 01:22:29:06 , 01:22:32:18 , carefully, then dip it in| the Indigo vat, 01:22:33:04 , 01:22:34:22 , and that's all. 01:22:37:05 , 01:22:39:23 , Okay the piece is done now. 01:22:40:07 , 01:22:43:18 , Then, as I suggested,| I have got some 01:22:44:01 , 01:22:45:07 , white places, 01:22:45:23 , 01:22:49:05 , because of the use of this clay resist| before Indigo dyeing, 01:22:49:19 , 01:22:52:25 , then on some places | I just kept some 01:22:52:26 , 01:22:56:07 , pale violet which was previously| done with the madder, 01:22:56:24 , 01:23:00:05 , and then all together I have got| about four shades. 01:23:00:29 , 01:23:05:04 , By dipping it in the indigo vat,| and washing. 01:23:12:00 , 01:23:14:26 , So the first piece is done, 01:23:15:03 , 01:23:17:04 , but the second piece, 01:23:17:12 , 01:23:22:20 , which has been dyed in the same madder| vat with discharge, 01:23:23:16 , 01:23:25:02 , then for this second one, 01:23:25:11 , 01:23:28:02 , I have another project. 01:23:28:08 , 01:23:30:13 , Because this is a pale red, 01:23:30:20 , 01:23:33:16 , because of the very very| quick dip in the 01:23:33:20 , 01:23:37:28 , in the mordant, then I get| quite a pale red, 01:23:38:11 , 01:23:42:23 , now I am interested in introducing| some yellows on this piece 01:23:43:07 , 01:23:44:20 , in order to get white, 01:23:45:11 , 01:23:47:29 , yellows, reds and orange shades. 01:23:48:11 , 01:23:49:21 , So how to proceed. 01:23:50:08 , 01:23:51:19 , It's very simple. 01:23:51:22 , 01:23:53:28 , You remember this mordant 01:23:54:21 , 01:23:56:14 , which is alum mordant, 01:23:57:01 , 01:24:00:17 , is very useful for all kinds| of bright colors. 01:24:01:04 , 01:24:04:24 , So I will not dip anymore| in madder for sure, but, 01:24:05:09 , 01:24:10:27 , if I just add some more mordant and| then dip it in yellow plant dye 01:24:11:02 , 01:24:13:01 , as for example 01:24:13:01 , 01:24:14:13 , Osage, 01:24:14:13 , 01:24:17:23 , then I will get all range of| shades I am looking for. 01:24:18:11 , 01:24:20:09 , So let's do it. 01:24:22:23 , 01:24:26:02 , Let's start with the alum mordant. 01:24:28:22 , 01:24:32:07 , I will use the same little block | as previously, 01:24:32:18 , 01:24:35:15 , but I will not totally| cover the design 01:24:35:29 , 01:24:37:28 , we will just do it like that| in order to 01:24:38:09 , 01:24:39:15 , save 01:24:39:28 , 01:24:41:24 , some white parts 01:24:42:08 , 01:24:43:18 , Because as you know, 01:24:44:07 , 01:24:46:14 , the yellow will stick 01:24:46:25 , 01:24:49:23 , on the mordant but not | on the background. 01:24:57:26 , 01:25:00:05 , So I finish this piece, 01:25:00:24 , 01:25:03:01 , and then I dry it carefully, 01:25:03:23 , 01:25:09:01 , I put it again in the wheat bran| bath in order to fix this mordant 01:25:09:24 , 01:25:11:09 , because at some point 01:25:11:16 , 01:25:14:14 , you may forget this very important| point. 01:25:14:29 , 01:25:18:23 , But it is very crucial you do it| because if you forget, 01:25:19:17 , 01:25:22:01 , you would probably waste| the piece. 01:25:22:28 , 01:25:24:02 , okay then I will add 01:25:24:20 , 01:25:28:17 , some more mordant somewhere, | for example may at even 01:25:29:01 , 01:25:32:27 , on the already red part, 01:25:34:01 , 01:25:37:03 , it doesn't matter -- it will give| a kind of orange as well, 01:25:38:17 , 01:25:40:25 , and that's all.| So I finish the piece 01:25:41:08 , 01:25:43:01 , and now, 01:25:43:18 , 01:25:50:03 , I dry it, fix it, and dye it| in the Osage bath. 01:25:53:29 , 01:25:55:14 , The piece is done now. 01:25:55:28 , 01:26:01:08 , So remember, this piece has been| dyed already with madder and discharge 01:26:01:19 , 01:26:03:25 , for white parts,| so we print it again 01:26:04:10 , 01:26:07:13 , the same alum mordant as before, 01:26:08:01 , 01:26:10:13 , but, instead of madder, 01:26:10:21 , 01:26:14:28 , we reused a second dyestuff| which is Osage sawdust. 01:26:15:19 , 01:26:18:02 , So by dipping in this pot, 01:26:18:24 , 01:26:22:28 , of Osage, we have got some| yellow color on the piece. 01:26:23:14 , 01:26:25:23 , So we have got white pieces, 01:26:26:01 , 01:26:28:24 , yellow,| and red. 01:26:36:10 , 01:26:40:18 , Now let us have a look| on the next one. 01:26:42:29 , 01:26:46:06 , The next one has been | already dyed 01:26:46:16 , 01:26:47:25 , violet, 01:26:48:02 , 01:26:51:04 , in the madder vat| with the ferrous mordant. 01:26:51:26 , 01:26:54:05 , You must know that this| ferrous mordant 01:26:54:22 , 01:26:57:26 , is very attractive for| another purpose 01:26:58:16 , 01:27:00:12 , because as you have| seen before 01:27:01:00 , 01:27:03:17 , when dried, this| mordant is about 01:27:03:29 , 01:27:06:13 , yellowish -- a kind of| rust color. 01:27:07:04 , 01:27:08:13 , So, imagine 01:27:08:25 , 01:27:12:18 , instead of alum mordant,| if I use the ferrous mordant 01:27:13:12 , 01:27:14:29 , as a color now. 01:27:15:05 , 01:27:16:15 , So this is done, 01:27:16:21 , 01:27:18:04 , and now, 01:27:18:12 , 01:27:21:05 , by printing the ferrous mordant| in the piece, 01:27:21:18 , 01:27:24:14 , I will get when dried| and fixed in wheat bran 01:27:24:20 , 01:27:27:20 , a kind of mineral color,| which is rust 01:27:28:05 , 01:27:30:01 , together with the violet. 01:27:30:20 , 01:27:35:27 , This is very easy to do, but, because| there is probably a small amount 01:27:36:19 , 01:27:41:01 , of ferrous and madder together| in here, 01:27:41:18 , 01:27:46:03 , it will probably be converted| into a brownish yellow. 01:27:46:13 , 01:27:51:26 , You will notice I am using the same | block I used with lemon discharge 01:27:52:26 , 01:27:54:03 , it doesn't matter. 01:27:54:03 , 01:27:55:29 , the same block can be reused, 01:27:56:04 , 01:27:58:02 , in order to include 01:27:58:02 , 01:28:00:25 , the rust mordant --| the ferrous mordant, 01:28:01:25 , 01:28:03:11 , in places 01:28:03:20 , 01:28:06:19 , like that. 01:28:15:24 , 01:28:18:08 , So now let's finish this piece. 01:28:18:15 , 01:28:20:07 , And as you know, 01:28:20:14 , 01:28:24:26 , when finished I just have to fix it| in the wheat bran bath again, 01:28:25:00 , 01:28:26:22 , and for this one --| that's all. 01:28:27:03 , 01:28:28:10 , So. 01:28:28:17 , 01:28:30:20 , The printed pieces will take 01:28:31:01 , 01:28:36:07 , a kind of rusty color when dried.| We don't need any other dye bath 01:28:36:10 , 01:28:39:05 , because this is a kind of| mineral color now. 01:28:55:24 , 01:28:57:05 , This piece is dried now. 01:28:57:16 , 01:28:58:29 , so, what we did, 01:28:59:07 , 01:29:01:20 , print some diluted ferrous mordant 01:29:02:05 , 01:29:03:17 , in here, 01:29:03:23 , 01:29:06:28 , then we dried it and then| we fixed the mordant 01:29:07:12 , 01:29:10:02 , in the wheat bran bath again 01:29:10:25 , 01:29:13:11 , so I got a kind of tan color 01:29:13:27 , 01:29:15:17 , a weak rusty color, 01:29:16:08 , 01:29:21:01 , which is very attractive when| over-dyeing with indigo because 01:29:21:20 , 01:29:25:12 , that kind of weak yellow will give| a kind of 01:29:25:29 , 01:29:28:10 , attractive green. 01:29:28:16 , 01:29:30:16 , We will see this later. 01:29:31:02 , 01:29:32:06 , And now, 01:29:32:14 , 01:29:34:22 , I have to present the last one. 01:29:41:11 , 01:29:44:18 , Remember, this was dyed| already 01:29:45:03 , 01:29:46:00 , in madder, 01:29:46:07 , 01:29:48:14 , with a mixed mordant preparation, 01:29:48:27 , 01:29:50:20 , it means both| alum and ferrous 01:29:51:03 , 01:29:53:07 , then we used the lemon 01:29:53:24 , 01:29:56:10 , that lemon by itself,| in order just to 01:29:56:21 , 01:29:58:16 , remove one part 01:29:58:27 , 01:30:01:27 , of the mordant, then dye. 01:30:02:05 , 01:30:03:23 , So now, 01:30:04:13 , 01:30:07:23 , the next idea would be| for example to use 01:30:08:13 , 01:30:10:25 , the ferrous mordant again, 01:30:12:23 , 01:30:16:01 , just in order to design| a little bit with the brush 01:30:16:27 , 01:30:20:02 , and then put it again in the 01:30:20:22 , 01:30:22:15 , tannic acid from Gall Nut 01:30:23:12 , 01:30:27:28 , so the tannin will come gray| as we have seen it 01:30:28:09 , 01:30:29:12 , in the beginning, 01:30:29:21 , 01:30:33:14 , and then we will get kinds of gray| together with these purple. 01:30:34:02 , 01:30:36:02 , So let's start now. 01:30:39:08 , 01:30:40:28 , First add the mordant, 01:30:41:12 , 01:30:43:11 , and second step will be to| dry it, 01:30:43:29 , 01:30:45:14 , fix it, and put it 01:30:46:00 , 01:30:49:09 , in a warm tannin bath. 01:30:50:14 , 01:30:52:07 , We don't need to cook the tannin. 01:30:52:28 , 01:30:56:16 , We just have to put the gall nut in| warm water, 01:30:57:05 , 01:30:59:13 , be sure the mordant is totally 01:30:59:28 , 01:31:01:16 , fixed first, 01:31:01:25 , 01:31:03:06 , and then at that moment, 01:31:03:11 , 01:31:06:09 , the gray will appear in the middle| of the purple. 01:31:09:18 , 01:31:12:20 , Let's finish this piece first. 01:31:19:16 , 01:31:21:13 , Now this fabric is done. 01:31:22:07 , 01:31:23:23 , So, 01:31:23:26 , 01:31:25:10 , I remind you, 01:31:25:15 , 01:31:27:06 , we put the ferrous mordant 01:31:27:20 , 01:31:29:16 , together with alum mordant 01:31:30:05 , 01:31:32:26 , then removed it with the| lemon juice, 01:31:33:01 , 01:31:36:03 , then we dyed it in madder| for this purple shade. 01:31:36:15 , 01:31:39:10 , and afterwards, we did| have to 01:31:39:17 , 01:31:41:28 , design with the ferrous| mordant again, 01:31:42:12 , 01:31:44:06 , but locally, 01:31:44:19 , 01:31:48:00 , then when dried,| we put it in the wheat bran bath 01:31:48:11 , 01:31:52:02 , as usual -- don't forget it is| very crucial step, 01:31:52:02 , 01:31:53:19 , without it is wasted. 01:31:54:04 , 01:31:57:13 , Then, we prepared a warm 01:31:57:24 , 01:32:01:04 , bath with this Gall Nut| you have seen previously, 01:32:01:13 , 01:32:05:19 , but crushed in powder, that fine| powder which is very useful 01:32:05:20 , 01:32:07:27 , we put it in warm water, 01:32:07:27 , 01:32:09:27 , with the fabric together, 01:32:10:17 , 01:32:11:22 , and then 01:32:12:01 , 01:32:14:29 , it's done -- just rinse| and it's done. 01:32:21:00 , 01:32:23:20 , As you have seen previously| with this one 01:32:24:09 , 01:32:27:20 , we did the resist and then| we put it again 01:32:28:20 , 01:32:31:01 , in the Indigo vat. 01:32:31:11 , 01:32:32:09 , So, 01:32:32:14 , 01:32:36:02 , with any kind of pattern,| any kind of mordant, 01:32:36:10 , 01:32:39:15 , or discharge, you can| even put it 01:32:39:20 , 01:32:42:22 , in the Indigo in order| to finish it. 01:32:42:23 , 01:32:45:04 , This one is done,| but these three 01:32:47:09 , 01:32:48:19 , this one, 01:32:49:06 , 01:32:51:18 , this one, | and this one, 01:32:52:04 , 01:32:57:16 , can be put again in the Indigo vat| but before I do that, 01:32:57:22 , 01:32:59:28 , I may cover some places with this 01:33:00:07 , 01:33:03:19 , clay resist you have seen previously 01:33:04:02 , 01:33:07:00 , in order to save the place| I want to keep 01:33:07:14 , 01:33:08:08 , So, 01:33:08:11 , 01:33:12:11 , sometimes I will save some yellow,| sometimes I will not 01:33:12:16 , 01:33:15:11 , so I will get the green.| Sometimes I will save 01:33:15:19 , 01:33:19:27 , the purple, sometimes I will not,| so I will get a very dark blue 01:33:20:09 , 01:33:25:01 , sometimes I will save the gray| and maybe all around I will save 01:33:25:05 , 01:33:29:23 , --I will just dye with the blue,| so let's go on and we will see. 01:33:33:04 , 01:33:36:06 , Now these four pieces are finished. 01:33:36:26 , 01:33:39:13 , We were using the same technique. 01:33:39:28 , 01:33:44:27 , For each piece, we just have to dip it| in the mordant first, 01:33:45:05 , 01:33:47:25 , then discharge one part of the| mordant, 01:33:48:08 , 01:33:52:04 , and then, sometimes add mordant| -- or not, 01:33:52:15 , 01:33:55:25 , dip again in another plant,| -- or not, 01:33:56:09 , 01:33:59:04 , and then finish with the Indigo vat. 01:33:59:29 , 01:34:03:25 , So for this first one, you have| seen it before. It's okay. 01:34:04:01 , 01:34:05:06 , The second one, 01:34:05:06 , 01:34:08:22 , Remember -- we just added some pale 01:34:09:05 , 01:34:13:14 , diluted ferrous mordant in order| to get the gray with the 01:34:13:16 , 01:34:16:17 , Gall Nut dye 01:34:17:01 , 01:34:20:02 , then when over-dyed in the| Indigo 01:34:20:12 , 01:34:22:14 , it gives that kind of purple 01:34:23:05 , 01:34:25:10 , blue, and gray. 01:34:25:24 , 01:34:30:04 , With this one, which is | the alum mordanted piece, 01:34:30:15 , 01:34:35:03 , we over-dyed with the yellow 01:34:35:03 , 01:34:40:00 , color from the Osage,| saving some places 01:34:40:02 , 01:34:42:05 , with this resist 01:34:42:23 , 01:34:46:06 , made with gum and | clay together 01:34:46:12 , 01:34:49:21 , and then in Indigo we have got 01:34:49:21 , 01:34:54:20 , quite a large range of shades| including blue of course 01:34:54:20 , 01:34:59:05 , yellows we saved with clay --| greens, by overlapping 01:35:00:15 , 01:35:03:03 , reds and kinds of 01:35:03:12 , 01:35:06:07 , cloudy effects in the background. 01:35:06:23 , 01:35:08:08 , And the one with the rust 01:35:08:20 , 01:35:10:02 , we printed the rust here 01:35:10:17 , 01:35:12:11 , from ferrous mordant 01:35:12:21 , 01:35:13:29 , fixed ferrous mordant, 01:35:14:09 , 01:35:17:10 , then we saved that kind of| yellowish 01:35:17:22 , 01:35:20:28 , shade from rust together| with blue and purple. 01:35:22:08 , 01:35:24:12 , So now you can understand 01:35:24:22 , 01:35:27:09 , at that point, we did different| techniques. 01:35:28:05 , 01:35:29:07 , First was just 01:35:29:19 , 01:35:33:19 , printing mordant and dye, but| by immersion dyeing 01:35:33:24 , 01:35:35:17 , these four pieces show 01:35:35:23 , 01:35:38:23 , that made with only one dye bath| from madder 01:35:39:02 , 01:35:42:08 , you can get quite a large| range of possibilities. 01:35:42:15 , 01:35:45:25 , Now I will show you | some other examples. 01:35:53:21 , 01:35:57:03 , My two pieces are done now,| so I just 01:35:57:09 , 01:36:02:01 , put the resist - I dyed it in| indigo, and did it twice, 01:36:03:09 , 01:36:04:13 , and now, 01:36:04:27 , 01:36:06:19 , what can I do with these? 01:36:06:28 , 01:36:09:02 , I have first to choose the plant 01:36:09:13 , 01:36:10:16 , I need to use. 01:36:11:01 , 01:36:12:06 , So I suggest 01:36:12:19 , 01:36:15:05 , a tannin plant| which is pomegranate. 01:36:15:23 , 01:36:18:02 , Very interesting because it is both 01:36:18:17 , 01:36:20:06 , a yellow coloring| matter 01:36:20:16 , 01:36:21:25 , and a tannin. 01:36:22:11 , 01:36:23:12 , So, 01:36:23:20 , 01:36:25:02 , this is for the first piece. 01:36:25:24 , 01:36:27:02 , Second piece, 01:36:27:14 , 01:36:31:16 , I intend to look for some green shades| together with yellow, 01:36:32:02 , 01:36:32:25 , So, 01:36:33:01 , 01:36:35:29 , I will reuse the Osage sawdust. 01:36:36:09 , 01:36:37:23 , Now, 01:36:37:27 , 01:36:39:18 , what is the mordant I will use? 01:36:40:09 , 01:36:41:23 , For the pomegranate, 01:36:42:04 , 01:36:47:07 , I suggest to reuse the alum mordant| -- aluminium acetate, 01:36:47:14 , 01:36:51:11 , which is useful for yellows, even| brownish yellows, 01:36:51:17 , 01:36:54:15 , and then because of the tannin, 01:36:54:26 , 01:36:56:07 , I will reuse 01:36:56:16 , 01:36:58:04 , some ferrous mordant 01:36:58:20 , 01:36:59:22 , but, 01:37:00:01 , 01:37:04:12 , there is a big amount of tannin in it,| so I suggest to prepare 01:37:05:02 , 01:37:06:15 , a mix, 01:37:08:02 , 01:37:09:04 , of both. 01:37:09:08 , 01:37:14:06 , With a very small amount of ferrous| together with the alum. 01:37:14:27 , 01:37:16:22 , So I do it now, 01:37:17:21 , 01:37:19:04 , that's enough. 01:37:20:01 , 01:37:23:27 , Okay, I just have to mix it, | that's largely enough, 01:37:24:04 , 01:37:28:27 , because a large amount of tannin| with produce black if I use a lot 01:37:29:07 , 01:37:31:02 , This is ready. Then, 01:37:32:01 , 01:37:35:16 , Let's choose the form I will use. 01:37:36:01 , 01:37:37:10 , For example, this 01:37:37:24 , 01:37:40:08 , is my favorite for| pomegranates. 01:37:40:08 , 01:37:43:10 , So I have to cut some other forms| in order to 01:37:43:21 , 01:37:45:10 , put the mordant in places 01:37:45:20 , 01:37:46:09 , I like, 01:37:47:00 , 01:37:47:27 , so, 01:37:48:09 , 01:37:51:19 , using this polystyrene block,| very easily made, 01:37:52:03 , 01:37:55:15 , I will for example just do it| like that, 01:38:03:24 , 01:38:05:04 , This is enough. 01:38:06:04 , 01:38:10:17 , And because I have two different| mordants, I can't reuse the same 01:38:10:22 , 01:38:13:25 , so the second form| will be a triangle. 01:38:16:14 , 01:38:18:27 , Now I am ready to print. 01:38:19:15 , 01:38:22:01 , Let's prepare the table. 01:38:30:27 , 01:38:34:23 , Okay, this is the first mordant,| the alum mordant, so 01:38:35:12 , 01:38:39:07 , I will put it either on the | white parts and on the blue, 01:38:39:12 , 01:38:42:20 , because the white will give a| kind of brownish yellow 01:38:43:16 , 01:38:45:12 , then the blue will give a kind of 01:38:45:16 , 01:38:48:24 , khaki green,| so with this mordant 01:38:49:10 , 01:38:51:13 , we already know what it | will give. 01:38:52:15 , 01:38:54:08 , And the second one, 01:38:54:22 , 01:38:56:14 , will be applied with a triangle, 01:38:57:01 , 01:39:02:10 , and with a little bit of ferrous| in my tannin it will come brown. 01:39:02:26 , 01:39:06:23 , I will add it afterwards.| I will just finish my first one. 01:39:20:23 , 01:39:22:12 , So the first fabric is now drying, 01:39:22:26 , 01:39:27:17 , so I will prepare my second one,| dedicated to Osage. 01:39:28:04 , 01:39:32:08 , So I first have to cut the block, 01:39:32:24 , 01:39:35:12 , one or several blocks,| so I suggest 01:39:35:28 , 01:39:38:00 , to overlap, 01:39:38:11 , 01:39:40:27 , another kind of triangle 01:39:45:08 , 01:39:46:02 , okay, 01:39:46:05 , 01:39:49:25 , this one, in order to cover 01:39:50:23 , 01:39:51:26 , some of this, 01:39:52:09 , 01:39:55:12 , and because I will reuse one| part of the mordant 01:39:55:27 , 01:39:57:09 , I already did, 01:39:57:15 , 01:39:58:28 , I have some left, 01:39:59:07 , 01:40:02:23 , the diluted ferrous in alum 01:40:03:01 , 01:40:05:11 , so I will prepare another one. 01:40:06:17 , 01:40:09:05 , Maybe a small one now. 01:40:16:01 , 01:40:18:12 , Okay -- we are ready to print. 01:40:19:18 , 01:40:22:19 , Let's first start with the alum| mordant. 01:40:23:04 , 01:40:26:23 , We are waiting for a | brilliant yellow, 01:40:27:04 , 01:40:29:18 , with this alum mordant,| and then 01:40:29:23 , 01:40:33:24 , a kind of khaki with a mix| of both. 01:40:38:03 , 01:40:39:19 , Then I will cover 01:40:40:09 , 01:40:41:18 , one part 01:40:42:03 , 01:40:45:18 , of the white but not all of it,| because I want to save 01:40:46:28 , 01:40:48:07 , white parts, 01:40:48:23 , 01:40:49:20 , in the middle, 01:40:49:28 , 01:40:51:18 , yellow parts, 01:40:51:29 , 01:40:54:09 , and green parts. 01:41:08:05 , 01:41:11:13 , And then, the other one is supposed| to go here. 01:41:11:25 , 01:41:14:27 , So we just have a look| on how it does. 01:41:16:00 , 01:41:17:27 , So let's try the second mordant. 01:41:20:24 , 01:41:24:27 , The main purpose is to find| the right place for the blocks. 01:41:25:13 , 01:41:28:14 , I guess this is the right place. 01:41:35:19 , 01:41:38:06 , So here is the second mordant, 01:41:38:17 , 01:41:41:17 , I should paint the block first| as previously, 01:41:42:02 , 01:41:45:24 , and then, okay on the left| of my pattern, 01:41:46:05 , 01:41:47:15 , like this. 01:41:47:27 , 01:41:52:19 , So the mordant we previously| used for the first piece 01:41:53:07 , 01:41:55:00 , because I had some left, 01:41:55:13 , 01:42:01:02 , now I will finish it by adding from | place to place a small amount 01:42:01:11 , 01:42:02:17 , for example, okay, 01:42:02:29 , 01:42:05:27 , this is supposed to be yellow,| this will come green, 01:42:06:02 , 01:42:07:19 , this will come a little bit 01:42:07:25 , 01:42:11:21 , khaki and this will come a little bit| brownish. 01:42:19:09 , 01:42:21:29 , Now I know, on the left we put 01:42:22:14 , 01:42:25:17 , the diluted ferrous and alum mordant, 01:42:26:23 , 01:42:30:04 , for dark shade,| and on the right 01:42:30:04 , 01:42:32:16 , I will put, 01:42:35:03 , 01:42:39:23 , the pure alum mordant together| with some blue parts. 01:42:41:29 , 01:42:43:01 , Okay. 01:42:43:23 , 01:42:46:01 , So now let's finish the piece. 01:42:57:09 , 01:42:58:24 , Now my pieces are ready. 01:42:59:12 , 01:43:00:22 , They are dyed and dried. 01:43:01:03 , 01:43:02:20 , The one with pomegranate 01:43:03:02 , 01:43:04:14 , is interesting because 01:43:04:22 , 01:43:08:18 , with the aluminium acetate it gives| a kind of dull yellow 01:43:08:27 , 01:43:12:22 , and even by adding a small amount| of ferrous in the 01:43:13:09 , 01:43:16:26 , mordant, then we will get that| kind of brownish shade 01:43:17:09 , 01:43:20:04 , at the same time, in the same| dye bath. 01:43:21:07 , 01:43:22:18 , In case you wanted 01:43:22:29 , 01:43:26:09 , some more darker, just add some more| ferrous 01:43:26:11 , 01:43:30:03 , imagine if we put more ferrous in| this one, it will be 01:43:30:24 , 01:43:34:15 , a very dark brown, even| nearly black. 01:43:34:29 , 01:43:36:29 , Depending on the ratio you use. 01:43:37:29 , 01:43:40:00 , So the second piece 01:43:40:00 , 01:43:42:20 , has been dyed in the Osage 01:43:42:28 , 01:43:46:00 , then as I told you, 01:43:46:00 , 01:43:47:11 , it gives a yellow, 01:43:47:15 , 01:43:51:02 , with the alum mordant,| by overlapping 01:43:51:16 , 01:43:53:27 , with the blue it gives| a kind of green, 01:43:54:16 , 01:43:58:14 , and because there is no tannin| in the Osage 01:43:58:21 , 01:44:03:22 , it doesn't reflect so much difference| between our two mordants. 01:44:10:20 , 01:44:14:18 , Because of the very weak contrast| between the two mordants, 01:44:14:23 , 01:44:16:21 , I am not totally satisfied, so, 01:44:17:01 , 01:44:19:03 , what shall I do? 01:44:19:13 , 01:44:21:14 , I may for example add 01:44:22:02 , 01:44:26:05 , some more mordant again,| and dip it again in something else 01:44:26:20 , 01:44:30:25 , I suggest we try it with the alum| mordant and then dip it quickly 01:44:31:04 , 01:44:33:09 , in a Cochineal bath| in order to 01:44:33:21 , 01:44:37:10 , get kinds of pink shades, 01:44:37:14 , 01:44:42:25 , and together with the blue, it will | give violet shades at the same time. 01:44:43:05 , 01:44:44:21 , Let's do it. 01:44:46:14 , 01:44:49:04 , So this is the Cochineal| you already know, 01:44:49:18 , 01:44:51:26 , I have some dye bath 01:44:52:09 , 01:44:55:04 , already left from the previous| experiment, 01:44:55:22 , 01:44:59:29 , so first I will print| again the alum mordant 01:45:00:12 , 01:45:04:29 , dry it, fix it in wheat bran,| and then we will dip it in this 01:45:05:20 , 01:45:07:10 , Cochineal bath. 01:45:07:19 , 01:45:09:02 , So let's do it. 01:45:18:07 , 01:45:21:10 , Okay for example this is 01:45:21:22 , 01:45:25:08 , a good place for me here, 01:45:32:29 , 01:45:34:25 , I just need a few. 01:45:35:07 , 01:45:38:10 , So for example,| another one here. 01:45:43:17 , 01:45:46:03 , Okay so that's enough now,| I am going to finish it. 01:45:46:19 , 01:45:48:02 , Dry first, 01:45:48:13 , 01:45:50:17 , fix the mordant,| and dye. 01:45:51:15 , 01:45:53:00 , Let's do it. 01:45:56:11 , 01:45:59:28 , Okay the piece is done now,| so with the cochineal, 01:46:00:02 , 01:46:03:13 , you can see pink and violet, 01:46:04:07 , 01:46:06:02 , by overlapping the indigo 01:46:06:15 , 01:46:08:02 , and then, 01:46:08:12 , 01:46:10:00 , the yellow became a little bit 01:46:10:11 , 01:46:12:18 , orange at the same time. 01:46:13:07 , 01:46:14:18 , which is 01:46:14:27 , 01:46:18:18 , in my point of view,| a little bit more attractive. 01:46:19:10 , 01:46:22:20 , So that's a good reason not to throw| anything away. 01:46:23:11 , 01:46:25:24 , I would suggest to prepare the mordant 01:46:26:21 , 01:46:29:22 , as a separate work,| and at the moment you dye, 01:46:30:11 , 01:46:32:26 , do not throw anything away 01:46:33:09 , 01:46:36:02 , because in cases like this one, 01:46:36:11 , 01:46:39:00 , you may choose to reuse some| of the old bath 01:46:39:24 , 01:46:41:25 , if done quickly,| not after maybe 01:46:42:12 , 01:46:44:12 , a few weeks but if| done very quickly 01:46:44:23 , 01:46:47:09 , in order to just add or correct 01:46:47:23 , 01:46:49:18 , some little things on your art. 01:46:50:00 , 01:46:52:12 , So actually I am | very pleased with this piece 01:46:52:26 , 01:46:56:23 , because I saved one of the old| cochineal bath, 01:46:57:07 , 01:47:00:15 , in order to reintroduce some| other shades 01:47:00:25 , 01:47:01:23 , so, 01:47:02:07 , 01:47:05:00 , the aesthetic is appealing to me 01:47:05:07 , 01:47:07:27 , and overall I am very satisfied 01:47:07:27 , 01:47:10:16 , I didn't throw anything away| during all that work. 01:47:11:24 , 01:47:13:05 , Now let's have a look on 01:47:13:12 , 01:47:16:16 , all that we have done during this | workshop. 01:47:21:26 , 01:47:25:22 , Now everything you need | for this course 01:47:25:26 , 01:47:27:07 , is on this table. 01:47:27:27 , 01:47:31:08 , so let's review together all the| pieces we did. 01:47:31:28 , 01:47:36:15 , First of all, we did this piece| with the Indigo vat. 01:47:37:02 , 01:47:39:04 , So, remember, 01:47:39:13 , 01:47:41:22 , my favorite Indigo vat | is the following: 01:47:42:04 , 01:47:45:06 , 1 Part of Indigo pigment, 01:47:45:22 , 01:47:47:25 , together with | 2 Parts of lime, 01:47:48:07 , 01:47:52:29 , it might be lime from bone shell| or ordinary lime, 01:47:53:15 , 01:47:55:11 , and 3 Parts of Henna. 01:47:56:07 , 01:47:58:03 , So in order to finish | this fabric, 01:47:58:24 , 01:48:01:19 , in order to get| 3 different shades of Indigo, 01:48:02:05 , 01:48:06:14 , we used a resist paste we applied with| a brush on the piece, 01:48:07:00 , 01:48:09:14 , and with the first dip| we saved some 01:48:09:23 , 01:48:11:00 , clean parts, 01:48:11:13 , 01:48:15:12 , with the second dip we saved| the medium blue 01:48:15:12 , 01:48:17:16 , and third dip 01:48:17:16 , 01:48:19:22 , was dedicated to dark blue. 01:48:19:22 , 01:48:24:16 , The composition of this paste is| 1 Part Magnesium Sulfate, 01:48:24:16 , 01:48:27:23 , 2 Parts of Arabic gum, 01:48:27:23 , 01:48:29:26 , and 3 Parts of clay. 01:48:30:15 , 01:48:33:15 , Now let's have a look | on the second piece. 01:48:33:22 , 01:48:35:02 , For this piece 01:48:35:10 , 01:48:37:25 , We had to prepare mordants. 01:48:38:10 , 01:48:42:00 , We did 2 kinds of these mordants. 01:48:42:08 , 01:48:43:21 , And by mixing them, 01:48:44:01 , 01:48:46:24 , we know that we have lots| of possibilities. 01:48:47:18 , 01:48:49:00 , The first mordant 01:48:50:02 , 01:48:51:02 , this one 01:48:51:02 , 01:48:56:04 , was made by mixing together in vinegar| alum and lime. 01:48:56:09 , 01:48:59:24 , This is dedicated to| bright colors. 01:49:00:09 , 01:49:02:07 , The second mordant 01:49:02:13 , 01:49:06:05 , has been done by diluting in vinegar| again, 01:49:06:19 , 01:49:09:01 , ferrous sulfate and lime. 01:49:09:15 , 01:49:14:07 , So this is dedicated to dark colors.| And by mixing both, 01:49:15:02 , 01:49:17:23 , We have seen that we can get| a kind of violet. 01:49:18:21 , 01:49:22:16 , So to use this mordant we added| some gum 01:49:23:00 , 01:49:25:03 , in order to get 01:49:25:17 , 01:49:28:00 , a syrupy consistency. 01:49:28:24 , 01:49:31:13 , Which we can use to| design easily on the fabric. 01:49:31:15 , 01:49:33:23 , Then the fabric has been dried, 01:49:33:29 , 01:49:38:02 , cleaned a bit, and then dyed| in the cochineal. 01:49:38:15 , 01:49:42:17 , Then in order to save a very| clean background, 01:49:42:26 , 01:49:48:26 , we used this wheat bran together| in warm water 01:49:48:26 , 01:49:50:04 , which is a very 01:49:50:04 , 01:49:54:18 , slow, soaping process,| and very natural. 01:49:57:04 , 01:50:01:11 , So let's review the third one. 01:50:02:16 , 01:50:03:24 , For this piece, 01:50:04:05 , 01:50:06:14 , we used the same mordants 01:50:06:27 , 01:50:08:14 , together with the gum, 01:50:08:20 , 01:50:09:28 , but, 01:50:10:04 , 01:50:14:05 , before dipping it in the madder, 01:50:14:25 , 01:50:17:09 , this is the madder, 01:50:17:16 , 01:50:22:25 , before that -- we did add| some discharge paste. 01:50:23:05 , 01:50:26:06 , Which is made| by mixing together 01:50:26:18 , 01:50:30:01 , Lemon Juice, water and gum. 01:50:30:15 , 01:50:34:12 , So, when finishing with the| printing process, 01:50:35:01 , 01:50:37:09 , we achieved the dye 01:50:37:20 , 01:50:38:26 , in the madder 01:50:39:07 , 01:50:42:21 , and then washed the background| as previously. 01:50:43:15 , 01:50:47:00 , Madder is a very very strong| dye stuff; 01:50:47:06 , 01:50:49:25 , so sometimes it may be found 01:50:49:25 , 01:50:53:17 , difficult to clean the background,| so I suggest 01:50:54:02 , 01:50:56:26 , to use traditional Marseille Soap 01:50:57:02 , 01:50:59:26 , in order to achieve | the washing process. 01:51:00:04 , 01:51:04:03 , Now let's have a look at the next one. 01:51:05:21 , 01:51:07:18 , For this one, 01:51:07:28 , 01:51:11:27 , we just used the same mordant| as previously 01:51:12:18 , 01:51:16:27 , and fixed the mordant,| dyed it in red leaf grape vine, 01:51:18:07 , 01:51:22:01 , and achieved kinds of greenish shades| together with 01:51:22:08 , 01:51:23:16 , grays, 01:51:23:26 , 01:51:27:01 , and at that moment we decided to| save some parts 01:51:27:20 , 01:51:32:02 , by adding the resist paste| you already know, 01:51:32:17 , 01:51:34:28 , so we covered, 01:51:35:04 , 01:51:37:04 , some parts with the brush, 01:51:37:14 , 01:51:39:04 , and then, 01:51:39:14 , 01:51:42:04 , we dipped it again in Indigo 01:51:42:04 , 01:51:44:16 , in order to get some cloudy 01:51:44:18 , 01:51:49:28 , effects on the background and some| blue shades together with the others. 01:51:51:01 , 01:51:53:10 , So the next one, 01:51:53:22 , 01:51:57:05 , is dedicated to madder again, 01:51:57:27 , 01:52:00:25 , so we use the ferrous bath, 01:52:01:01 , 01:52:05:23 , but we didn't have to put gum in it| so that ferrous has been used, 01:52:06:17 , 01:52:08:11 , as an immersion process 01:52:08:26 , 01:52:10:08 , then we dried, 01:52:10:27 , 01:52:15:09 , then we added the discharge| from lemon, 01:52:15:13 , 01:52:19:18 , in order to save some clean pieces,| then we dyed. 01:52:19:24 , 01:52:23:10 , So we have got a kind of violet | together with white parts. 01:52:23:26 , 01:52:26:14 , And in these white parts, 01:52:26:23 , 01:52:29:07 , we added some resist again, 01:52:29:22 , 01:52:32:01 , in order to save some white, 01:52:32:01 , 01:52:36:27 , blue, and violet in the same piece| when dipping it in Indigo. 01:52:37:23 , 01:52:41:15 , So the next one is a little bit| different. 01:52:41:19 , 01:52:42:28 , because, 01:52:43:01 , 01:52:47:22 , we reused the same liquid mordant, 01:52:48:05 , 01:52:50:04 , for the immersion 01:52:50:17 , 01:52:52:00 , mordanting process 01:52:52:17 , 01:52:54:05 , then we dried it, 01:52:54:19 , 01:52:56:24 , we discharged some mordant, 01:52:57:02 , 01:53:01:13 , with the lemon again,| in order to save some clean parts, 01:53:01:22 , 01:53:05:00 , then we dyed in madder 01:53:05:27 , 01:53:10:09 , so we have got light red| together with white parts. 01:53:10:19 , 01:53:14:07 , And then, at that moment,| we reused the same mordant, 01:53:14:15 , 01:53:16:28 , but the second mordant, 01:53:17:10 , 01:53:20:00 , to get some clean prints. 01:53:20:17 , 01:53:21:22 , And then, 01:53:21:26 , 01:53:24:19 , fix it again,| and put it now, 01:53:25:01 , 01:53:28:16 , in the Osage sawdust bath. 01:53:29:03 , 01:53:30:21 , So the result is 01:53:31:16 , 01:53:35:10 , reds and yellow together in | the same piece. 01:53:35:29 , 01:53:38:02 , And then at that moment, 01:53:38:12 , 01:53:40:02 , we reused again, 01:53:40:12 , 01:53:41:27 , the resist 01:53:42:07 , 01:53:45:00 , in order to save some reds and yellow, 01:53:45:10 , 01:53:49:14 , and then we dipped it in the| Indigo vat again. 01:53:50:00 , 01:53:51:07 , So, 01:53:51:13 , 01:53:55:24 , we have got some cloudy brownish| background together with 01:53:56:02 , 01:53:59:19 , reds, yellows, blues, and| green shades. 01:54:00:00 , 01:54:01:05 , All together. 01:54:01:27 , 01:54:05:17 , The next one is a little bit | different. We reused 01:54:05:17 , 01:54:11:23 , the ferrous mordant for an immersion| mordanting process, 01:54:11:29 , 01:54:16:05 , pressing the piece in order| to save a kind of cloudy background, 01:54:16:17 , 01:54:17:20 , then, 01:54:17:29 , 01:54:20:15 , we added the discharge, 01:54:20:19 , 01:54:25:09 , in order to save some clean parts,| and dyed in madder, 01:54:25:21 , 01:54:29:16 , in order to get the violet shade| together with white. 01:54:29:26 , 01:54:33:21 , Then, we reused the ferrous mordant| now. 01:54:34:18 , 01:54:38:08 , Just to get a kind of pale, | rusty shade. 01:54:39:04 , 01:54:40:01 , And then, 01:54:40:07 , 01:54:44:25 , we protected again the piece| with resist paste before 01:54:45:00 , 01:54:48:18 , putting it in the Indigo vat. 01:54:49:00 , 01:54:51:09 , So we get a kind of cloudy 01:54:51:23 , 01:54:53:13 , yellowish and blueish 01:54:54:03 , 01:54:58:11 , designs in this cloudy violet| pattern. 01:54:58:17 , 01:55:00:28 , So let's have a look at | the next one now. 01:55:02:05 , 01:55:06:11 , So this one has been mordanted in| about the same mordant, 01:55:06:25 , 01:55:09:17 , then we added a discharge| as previously, 01:55:10:05 , 01:55:14:13 , then in the clean parts,| we just added some ferrous mordant 01:55:15:05 , 01:55:16:13 , and dipped it 01:55:17:10 , 01:55:21:02 , in the Gall Nut bath, 01:55:21:02 , 01:55:25:25 , in order to get a kind of gray shade. 01:55:25:25 , 01:55:31:11 , Then we protected again some places| with this resist 01:55:31:17 , 01:55:35:01 , and the fabric was finished in the| Indigo vat. 01:55:35:06 , 01:55:39:24 , So that we might get some| white, blue, gray and purple 01:55:40:02 , 01:55:42:12 , background all together. 01:55:44:08 , 01:55:46:18 , The next one is a little | bit different. 01:55:46:23 , 01:55:50:22 , Because we decided to start with| the Indigo first. 01:55:51:13 , 01:55:53:15 , So, we printed the resist, 01:55:53:26 , 01:55:55:05 , the same, 01:55:55:09 , 01:55:58:24 , then we dyed the piece in Indigo, 01:55:59:01 , 01:56:01:11 , and then at that moment, we decided 01:56:01:17 , 01:56:05:08 , to print it again| with the alum mordant 01:56:05:21 , 01:56:09:13 , and a second print| dedicated to a mix of 01:56:09:19 , 01:56:13:10 , alum mordant with a small amount| of ferrous. 01:56:13:21 , 01:56:15:24 , In order to get a different shade. 01:56:16:05 , 01:56:21:24 , Then the piece has been dyed in the| pomegranate rind. 01:56:22:01 , 01:56:27:25 , At the places we overlapped the| mordant on the Indigo, 01:56:27:28 , 01:56:30:10 , A greenish shade is appearing. 01:56:30:24 , 01:56:33:13 , And for the last piece, 01:56:34:01 , 01:56:38:14 , We used about the same method,| but a little bit differently. 01:56:38:27 , 01:56:45:18 , We started with resist and Indigo in| order to get together 01:56:46:06 , 01:56:49:01 , blue and white patterns. 01:56:49:15 , 01:56:53:01 , So at that moment, we printed| alum mordant 01:56:54:12 , 01:56:57:11 , at this place,| and then, 01:56:57:14 , 01:57:00:00 , we dyed it in the 01:57:00:27 , 01:57:06:09 , Osage sawdust again, and at that| moment it was a little bit yellowish. 01:57:06:15 , 01:57:09:28 , Then we added some more mordant 01:57:10:27 , 01:57:13:11 , these are the round pieces, 01:57:13:16 , 01:57:18:08 , and finished the piece in the| cochineal dye bath again. 01:57:18:08 , 01:57:22:18 , So we can see an orange-yellowish| shade here, 01:57:22:28 , 01:57:26:04 , some white parts, some| green parts from 01:57:26:20 , 01:57:29:20 , yellow and blue together, 01:57:30:03 , 01:57:32:05 , some violet parts, 01:57:32:05 , 01:57:36:16 , from pink and blue together,| and some pinkish parts, 01:57:36:22 , 01:57:38:02 , from the cochineal. 01:57:38:08 , 01:57:41:15 , So now you can see 01:57:41:21 , 01:57:44:14 , that there are a lot of| different possibilities 01:57:45:00 , 01:57:47:09 , depending on 01:57:47:25 , 01:57:51:04 , the plants that you will use,| depending on 01:57:51:04 , 01:57:54:01 , the combination of mordants,| of resists, 01:57:54:04 , 01:57:56:27 , discharge and indigo, 01:57:57:06 , 01:58:01:29 , so, a very huge world to explore 01:58:02:18 , 01:58:08:13 , So I suggest you just do it,| and enjoy natural colors now. 01:58:09:29 , 01:58:10:23 , That's all. 01:58:10:23 , 01:58:12:11 , À bientôt! 01:58:24:15 , 01:58:26:09 , Now in our workshop, 01:58:27:00 , 01:58:31:27 , we have produced ten different| samples of polychromatic designs, 01:58:32:12 , 01:58:33:18 , with very few 01:58:34:02 , 01:58:38:10 , dyes and two mordants --| of course including Indigo dye. 01:58:38:24 , 01:58:44:12 , But tell us about the comparison| between old examples of prints 01:58:44:26 , 01:58:47:02 , and what we did in our| workshop. 01:58:48:00 , 01:58:52:28 , Well, about this very traditional| use of madder, 01:58:52:28 , 01:58:54:27 , including reds, 01:58:54:27 , 01:58:58:14 , mixed colors and purple together, 01:58:59:01 , 01:59:01:22 , including white in it, 01:59:01:22 , 01:59:06:08 , we redid that kind of piece, but | instead of using lead acetate 01:59:06:08 , 01:59:09:12 , as our main mordant,| which is the white one, 01:59:09:17 , 01:59:13:04 , we just used very ecological things| such as 01:59:13:17 , 01:59:17:06 , ordinary vinegar,| home made lime, 01:59:17:11 , 01:59:18:17 , and alum. 01:59:18:27 , 01:59:23:29 , For this one which was the very| polluting way of doing this effect 01:59:24:05 , 01:59:26:29 , we didn't use this chromium salt| together with 01:59:27:03 , 01:59:31:01 , lead that they used for the | yellow and green, 01:59:31:05 , 01:59:33:22 , we chose quite a long process 01:59:34:14 , 01:59:37:14 , doing first the madder, 01:59:37:18 , 01:59:41:01 , then, dipping again with| a yellow dye stuff, 01:59:41:06 , 01:59:44:13 , and then, by overlapping| with indigo, 01:59:44:19 , 01:59:48:00 , getting about the same kind of shade| that they did, 01:59:48:06 , 01:59:51:01 , and about the same kind of green. 01:59:51:06 , 01:59:55:14 , So this is not so polluting --| and remember, 01:59:55:19 , 01:59:58:10 , we did use the mordant | until the last drop. 01:59:58:17 , 02:00:03:17 , we never throw away any mordant| when they are not toxic or polluting 02:00:03:17 , 02:00:06:11 , we prefer to reuse it| until the last drop. 02:00:06:11 , 02:00:08:24 , which is very different than the | traditional one. 02:00:09:22 , 02:00:11:08 , That's remarkable, Michel. 02:00:11:21 , 02:00:14:08 , So we can work with what we have 02:00:14:17 , 02:00:18:23 , in our home, even, and using| very few mordants 02:00:19:09 , 02:00:24:07 , and we can pursue a beautiful range| of colors, polychromatic effects, 02:00:24:12 , 02:00:27:10 , and have great fun.| Thank you so much! 02:00:27:23 , 02:00:28:24 , Enjoy! 02:00:29:01 , 02:00:30:02 , À bientôt! 02:00:30:09 , 02:00:31:14 , Good bye! 02:00:32:07 , 02:00:47:29 , ♪ Theme Music ♪